1978 245 GLE injection starting problem
 

Hi everyone, first-time Volvo owner here. As a result of London ULEZ I had to scrap my perfectly usable 2002 diesel and I bought a 1978 245 GLE, one owner from new, always garaged, 150k miles.

I will doubtless have more questions in future but for now just one.

It won't easily start.

It's a B21, I think it must be a B21E, with mechanical fuel injection. I don't know if it's a D-Jetronic or a K-Jetronic. Perhaps someone can identify it from the pic.

The ignition is all fine, fat sparks, new plugs, clean distributor cap. Tank drained and new petrol added.

Will not start from cold at all. Starts with EZ-start spray, then will sometimes carry on running, and when warm it will start again no problem. Then when it's cooled off, it won't start again.

Any ideas why and what to do next?

Many thanks,
Peter

Photos follow

It is K jet, D jet is electronic and only used on 140/164 and P1800's

To me the leads look tired and with the guard that has been added around the distributor it suggests ignition problems. Caps, rotor and leads would be worth considering

The warm up regulator could be the cold start issue also. Have you run any fuel treatment through it at all to clean things out?

Thanks CW for the advice. I think you're right, the leads do look a bit tired and cheap enough to replace. Cap and rotor look new as if recently replaced. And no, I haven't run a fuel treatment through the system, why didn't I think of that, I'll put some in the tank tomorrow and try again.

I'm not sure what the warm up regulator is or where it is. I downloaded this

http://ceb.ac.in/knowledge-center/E-...K-Jetronic.pdf

But there's no mention of warm up regulators.

I noticed that the injectors move slightly when wiggled with the hand, yet the compression is good on all cyls so there are no leaks. It this wiggling normal or should they be rigid like a spark plug?

Peter

Sorry CW, I'm blind, there is a section on the warm up regulator, but I don't know where to find it or how to test it.

There's also mention of a cold start valve, how to test this? I assume it's the injector in the middle of the manifold.

Peter

Peter:~
As already mentioned do the simple things first as these engines & fuel systems are normally spot on.
The injectors do wobbly but this isn't normally a sign of problems- they have two "O" rings on the plastic bolted holder- large inner- injector to fitting & small dia: outer fitting to cylinder head, these are quite straight forward to replace (watch for the outer ring being twisted/distorted.

I would also replace the rotor arm with a reliable "Beru" brand (keep the older as a spare)
Plugs & leads as already mentioned.
Fuel pump relay (under the glove box area) also carry a spare.
Fuel filter is worth changing.

After the above check the auxiliary air valve is open from cold (pull hose off) as it warms then it should close.
Ignition amplifiers just in front of the battery is also worth checking.

Be methodical and eliminate at each stage otherwise these engines are easily serviced.
Regards Bob.

Thanks Bob,

I will do all that stuff and hope for a good result. I love that there's loads of working space around the engine, compared to new cars where if you drop a spanner you'll never see it again.

I didn't mention that when I bought it, the car had been dry garaged for 12 years without being run. So naturally I first drained all the old fuel. Perhaps the first step would be to add fuel treatment to the tank and try running it for half an hour. And then change the fuel filter.

Any recommendations for fuel treatment? There are dozens on the market, some say they are specifically for injectors, others claim to clean the whole system.

Peter

Hi Peter

It is a long time since I had a 244gle but cold start problems are most likely to be the idle control valve. I have attatched a picture of the part so you can find it. As suggested in a previous post check that it if fully open when cold and shut when hot.
Good hunting with your problem.

Gavin

I generally use Redex (Wilco shops have descent prices at times) but most will have the same base formula so no real recommendations:~

The fuel filters are still worth changing if you don't know the last change date/tank condition.
It's the cannister on the bulk head just above the brake booster.
The nuts on these can be a pain to seal at times- low torque thread lock is useful (not full strength) and saves overtightening ---- or fuel proof gasket seal.

The car looks a worthwhile project- you will love it!

(Not wishing to give you extra work but is the timing belt age known- not expensive & an easy change on these cars)

Good Luck
Regards Bob

Hi Peter,

Welcome to the forum. I hope you get your motor car running well soon.

I'm curious about the ULEZ piece - are you saying your 1978 Volvo is exempt from the ULEZ? If so that is wonderful (but also bizarre).

Alan

PS. I've just answered my own question - I did an internet search and have found that historic taxation class vehicles are indeed exempt from the ULEZ. My 1980 244 auto (the Royal Barge) is therefore exempt, which is nice but somewhat academic as I have not driven in London for 25 years :-).

I'm disappointed- you mean the Royal barge hasn't been to the palace!
Regards Bob.