Recommended Engine Oil 2004 S60 P2 2.0 T SE
 

Hi Everyone

My S60 is due an oil and filter change and as I've never owned a Volvo before, was wondering what engine oil you guys use in their P2 S60 2.0 T's? My 2004 S60 has done 121,000 miles.

I always ask on forums regarding basic maintenance, as in my opinion, speaking to owners is always better than checking the manual, Haynes, or relying on internet search results.

Looking for recommendations of a good, and as inexpensive oil to use, and if there are any tips, other than the usual warm engine first, when it comes to changing the oil that I may not be aware of.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

When I began using synthetic oils in the family's turbos the recommendation (requirement, actually) was for an ACEA A3,B3 oil. Today's oils are improved and A3, B4 oils are out there. I'd use a 0W-40 (Mobil 1 et al.) or 0W-30 Castrol. The names differ on either side of the Atlantic but I think Magnetech might be one. The Mobil 1 is said to be "thinner" and the Castrol offering is said to be "thicker". I've used both and others over the many vehicles.

The 24mm drain plug gets loosened and the oil shoots out. Be ready for the stream's trajectory to reach out farther than you expect. I lay an old packing blanket beneath my engine as a first step.

Have an 18mm aluminum drain plug gasket ready as some get ripped up due to their thinness. Other gasket washers are reusable because they're thick.

When you've finished, report back and tell us how the underside of the oil fill cap looked. The high location causes accumulation of chunks and some look quite alarming. You can wash the cap in any strong cleaner. Again, the names of cleaners vary. Simple Green, Purple Power and Fast Orange will all work.

Have you got the filter cap removal tool

should be on sticker on black slam panel. 0w-30 a5 b5 or if desired 5w30 a5 b5

Some great info and useful advice, thank you very much.

I’m guessing this will be needed Stuart? Can it not be removed in the normal fashion, by hand, vice grips or if really stubborn piercing with a screwdriver and using that to screw it off?

Wasn’t aware of that, many thanks

you might work out a way, but I can't really see it being easy at all, it's kind of flush / level with the bottom of the sump and stuff close by stops you getting a chain wrench or similar on it. plus you don't want to damage it because it needs to go back on (plastic housing and replacement paper filter)

If you were near I'd just lend you mine but that's a 3 or 4 hour drive lol

they're not expensive https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+tool&_sacat=0

skip to 1:25 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxMZi-laKnA

mine was an aftermarket thing and the fit was a bit loose which actually wasn't a bad thing because instead of overtightening it just slipped round a bit and jammed up so i had to wiggle it to get it off. rather that though than knackering the thread I suppose

I have my old strap wrenches (one large, one small) where the strap is steel band. Stuart is right about access and clearance. The cup style wrenches in the link are likely the easiest and cheapest. There's a cup wrench which is more like a ring and they cost lots more.

In the case of my oldies, I get a grip on the canister and am able to nudge the filter 1/8 turn. The release / grab action of the strap wrench is essentially automatic if you keep the tool in place so I can tickle the wrench 4 or 5 times and the canister is then easy to unscrew the rest of the way.

So give that a try if you have my style wrenches left over from the 1950's! Otherwise, just get the correctly sized cup wrench and be done with it.

WARNING: There are modern, cheap, 2-pack strap wrenches with a thick rubber strap which I doubt would go around the filter because there's no clearance (as mentioned). Also, today's cheap strap wrenches have clunky, large plastic handles which also likely wouldn't allow the "scootching method" I use.

ps If you've never used one of the cup wrenches before you'll find there's a force which wants to separate cup from oil canister. It's almost odd. Just be ready to push on the cup wrench to keep it in place as you turn it. That's how mine (for other cars) seem to go. No biggie.

I'm getting a tad confused with what engine oil to use guys.

There was no sticker on the slam panel, so thought I'd check the owners manual. The manual states that petrol engines need ACEA A1, and recommended that fully synthetic oil for turbocharged engines. ACEA A3 oil should be used for extreme driving conditions. Viscosity of 0W-30 seems to be confirmed, although my manual does also mention 0W-40.

Haynes on the otherhand does suggest 0W-30 A5/B5 oil type to be used if no sticker with suggested oil type is present in the engine compartment.

Just wondering if I ignore the owners manual and go with what most of you guys, and the Haynes is saying?