Undersealing an amazon!
Hello all!
Looking to put the finishing touches on my amazon and was keen to prevent the nightmare that is rust as much as possible. I was looking into undersealing and was interested if any members had utilised Dinitrol to underseal an amazon and had any thoughts? The underside of my car is in pretty good shape and i'm looking to keep it that way, and therefore was thinking of taking it to a local rustproofing/undersealing specialist who utilises Dinitrol. Was also keen to get them to take off the old underseal and touch up any existing rust grumbles prior to a full coating, and installation of wheel arch liners. Therefore i was looking to dip into this forum's seemingly endless pool of knowledge and see if i'm just about to spend my money in the wrong place! Thank you! |
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The thing about all of these preventative treatments is that they really need to be used on clean rust free steel. If you just smear what ever gunk you choose onto rust all you are really doing is making a bigger nightmare for the welder who will have to come along and fix it proper (!) Removing old underseal on the underside of a car is one of my least liked jobs. I expect to get someone to do the job for you and for them to do a good job it will be a very expensive process. I imagine many commercial solutions would rather involve acid baths just because it is easier for the man power. Having owned 1980's and 1990's Mercedes with their rubberised undercoatings I know that the rubberised solutions are not great in the long run. As soon as water gets under the skin of rubber it gets sucked along resulting in much larger rust problems than there would have been if there had been paint or old engine oil... ...my PV544 is in a much better state than many modern vehicles and has lasted longer than them partly because of slightly thicker steel but mainly because of the old tar based underseal treatment it had (that didn't spread water like that rubberised ****) |
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Dinitrol is excellent stuff. I used ML for cavities base coat and then 4941 for underside. I also applied a rust converter first in cavities as well. I also cleaned back the arches, prepped and painted with Jotun epoxy mastic and topcoated with gravitex. The areas that are more susceptible to stone chips etc. The 142: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=305180&page=3
I cleaned off the old underseal as well I should have said. |
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One thing that might be worth considering:- I assume you will have some sort of guarantee for such a decent job so I'm not sure if the people doing the job will want to mix in another product before applying their choice of underseal product BUT I have had really good experiences with a cold galvanising paint called Zinga. [WARNING:- I've been banging on about this product on other threads!] Zinga has a fairly rough finished surface (especially when brushed or rolled) but is very good as a sacrificial rust combatant. In my opinion it is ideal as a rust treatment product over which something with a similarly rough surface finish will be applied. Note - not all products are able to be directly applied onto a zinc coating. In the Land Rover world there is talk about a mordant solution (not sure if the spelling for that word is correct) which etches a surface where as other "worlds" talk about etch primers. As Dinitrol is a kind of magic goo oil product I'm assuming direct application onto Zinga wouldn't be a problem but for a job where a thrid party is giving a guarantee there will undoubtedly need to be a disccussion... |
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But thank you all for the advice, definitely think i might be getting it done! |
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have a look at lanoguard , eary to do too
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Too far from you but have a look at the process these folk use. Whoever you use it should be similar if wanting a good job. https://preserveprotect.co.uk/
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I would strip all Underseal off the underneath of the car , then address all areas so solid once that’s carried out you have a few options but I would favour three coats of satin black hamerite then a nice coat of waxoil in all nooks and crannies to then …
apply a heavy coat underneath everywhere 😎👍 Bang for buck easy maintenance then it’s got to get by waxoil , then 1 , 2 and then it’s third coat of hammerite good luck moisture safe for 5-10 years for sure and I have tested this also have customers in seaside areas also in Scotland . Now the thing to watch is over winter salted roads the only help you can do is keep washed even when using in winter times each week wash and clean your car on Sunday for maximum results one customer I have lives down road from a main salt store in Scotland and that’s what he’s had todo 6.5 years later still good so keep it simple and maintain it Is my best advice 😎👍 Don’t listen to companies claiming a Miracle product like rust busters a great example that all it is = epoxy primer in a tin two part yeah righty o rust busters anyone in the trade all they have todo is read ingredients will know straight away Pfttt but on the flip side it’s not badly priced if your looking for epoxy primer pre respray 👌😎👍 All the best Kind regards Robert.w |
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