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-   200 Series General (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=11)
-   -   Any Advice, Part 2! (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=308878)

Othen Aug 14th, 2020 16:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris152 (Post 2656087)
Thanks Alan - TBC is a typo, meaning TDC, right?! Newbs here, I actually went looking! It's odd the manual says about needing to check alignment of the number one spark plug terminal on the distributor housing - maybe that's just in case marks on the sprockets or belt housing are missing? And we'll avoid the seals if they look ok, every chance we'll make things worse. :-)


TBC=TDC (my fat fingers).

If you use the camshaft mark then it has to be at TDC for #1; if you use the crank mark it could be for #1 or #4, so you have to check the rotor is at about 8 o'clock to tell the difference - einfach, nicht wahr?

:-)

Alan

Chris152 Aug 15th, 2020 14:01

Thanks Alan, alles klar.

Anyone know the answer to no 3?
3. Is my engine interference cylinder head, or non-interference?! Just checking in case we get things wrong - different sites say different things, Haynes says the B230 is interference.

Othen Aug 15th, 2020 14:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris152 (Post 2656380)
Thanks Alan, alles klar.

Anyone know the answer to no 3?
3. Is my engine interference cylinder head, or non-interference?! Just checking in case we get things wrong - different sites say different things, Haynes says the B230 is interference.

Chris,

My understanding is that the carburettor engines have flat topped pistons (lower compression), and are all safe. The fuel injection engines have domed pistons and are interference. This is only what I've read, I've never had a fuel injected Volvo; someone much more knowledgeable than I (like Loki or LS) will know the answer.

To be candid, this is a pretty simple engine: SOHC and just 8 valves, there is no reason to get this wrong. Take your time, check everything and it should be fine.

Alan

Chris152 Aug 15th, 2020 15:06

Point taken, Alan - tbh I think I've watched enough videos and read enough to be able to do it without the manual, so long as all is as its supposed to be. Doesn't stop me doubting myself tho.

Bugjam1999 Aug 15th, 2020 17:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2656388)
Chris,

My understanding is that the carburettor engines have flat topped pistons (lower compression), and are all safe. The fuel injection engines have domed pistons and are interference. This is only what I've read, I've never had a fuel injected Volvo; someone much more knowledgeable than I (like Loki or LS) will know the answer.

To be candid, this is a pretty simple engine: SOHC and just 8 valves, there is no reason to get this wrong. Take your time, check everything and it should be fine.

Alan

Not quite.

Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631.

If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously.

Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine.

Cheers

Bugjam1999 Aug 15th, 2020 17:50

Chris,

Consider a getting set of standard steel wheels from a 940 to fit with new tyres- they’re 15 inch not 14 which means it’s a lot easier and usually cheaper to get hold of tyres- the reduced sidewall height will help sharpen the steering and handling slightly too. 940 wheels are the same bolt pattern and offset, so will fit straight on.

Otherwise- does your son want to learn to weld? If so working on the car could be a perfect opportunity. Although it’ll depend on whether you have the space for it etc.

I recommend you encourage him to set up a thread here in the project cars section and also on the retrorides website- project threads are an easy way to keep interest up as people comment on them and offer encouragement etc.

Other than that, clear the sills out (they’re always full of leaves and other debris), check the car carefully for rust and start a to-do list of little jobs that need doing :)

Edit- one more thing, soon as you get the car take the wheels off in turn and carefully clean the calipers out and push each of the pistons back a bit to check they aren’t seized- each one should push back smoothly with a bit of force applied. Also clean/replace the caliper mounting pins to make sure the pads can slide easily on them. A stuck piston or pad mounting pin will mean that brake pad doesn’t release, leading to over heated fluid, warped discs and poor fuel consumption... Whilst there check the brake pads for wear, the piston dust seals are in good condition and the flexible hoses are in good condition with no cracks or bulges.


Cheers

loki_the_glt Aug 15th, 2020 18:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999 (Post 2656428)
Not quite.

Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631.

If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously.

Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine.

Cheers

The Heron head is found on the B230K engine, which AFAIK only appeared in carburettored form on the 240 and 740 for about two years. The B230K can be externally identified by the lump of emissions plumbing the front of the exhaust side of the engine.

Also a good call about the brakes - look at Machine Mart for their brake piston spreader which will wind back all 4 pistons on the front calipers; because the handbrake works on a set of shoes you don't need a fancy windback tool for them - the spreader tool will fit all of the calipers unless you get an ABS-equipped car.

Wagon Sailor Aug 15th, 2020 20:35

Glad you got sorted in the end, Chris.
Good luck with the car - you and your lad can have some enjoyable bonding to look forward to.

Othen Aug 16th, 2020 06:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999 (Post 2656428)
Not quite.

Vast majority of engines are non-interference. There is one engine spec with a heron head and domed pistons, that’s interference - identifiable as the cylinder head number ends 631.

If a cylinderhead has been removed and skimmed (to make it flat again) more than once it’s possible that will have made the engine interference when it wasn’t previously.

Cambelt replacement- not difficult, just take your time and spin the engine over a couple of times by hand to make sure the marks line up again and you’ll be fine.

Cheers

I knew there would be someone much more knowledgeable than myself about this matter, many thanks.

Alan

Othen Aug 16th, 2020 07:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999 (Post 2656450)
Chris,

Otherwise- does your son want to learn to weld? If so working on the car could be a perfect opportunity. Although it’ll depend on whether you have the space for it etc.

I recommend you encourage him to set up a thread here in the project cars section and also on the retrorides website- project threads are an easy way to keep interest up as people comment on them and offer encouragement etc.

Cheers

Now this would be a really good idea for Chris's son. If I remember correctly he has just turned 17 and so is probably still at school or college. When it comes to applying for work (particularly apprenticeships) employers really like evidence of projects outside of school. A thread (or even better a blog) here could be printed into a portfolio of evidence for Chris's son. Include some photos and lots of words.

Learning to weld would be a good skill. A lower end MIG welder is ideal for the thin metal on a car - and it is certainly a skill Chris's son will need a few times with an older Volvo (I found a little hole just in front on the driver's rear wheel arch the other day, some previous owner had put some filler over it (maybe 10 years ago...). I'll clean it up, make a repair patch and weld it it when it stops raining).

Good fortune, time for Bob's first walk.

Alan


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