Air Filter Adaptor
 

Does anyone know if the air filter "adaptor" shown in the attached images is available?

I saw it in this video:

https://youtu.be/_OTwFpYWXq4

I find myself in the position of having blue three bolt air filters for two bolt carbs.

This means that I currently have a well used three bolt blue filter on the front carb and a nice, fresh pancake filter on the rear carb. This adaptor looks like a nice way of being able to use the slimmer two bolt filters and keeping the PCV system working.

ed;

That "adapter" is there as a way to connect the PCV hose to the filtered fresh air source. It was effectively eliminated and replaced when they simply added a stub of tubing to the backplate of the front Air-Fllter. If you insist on having it for originality, you might be able to source one from an organ donor car, but your three-bolt Air-Filters like likely have the stub.

Cheers

On a '69 you probably should have the box filter that goes across both carbs. Otherwise use the 2 larger/fatter blue ones which as Ron says has a built in tube for the hose on the front one.

Post a pic of your current set up.

Thanks to both Ron and Derek for the helpful responses.

I've attached two photos of the carbs. Derek, I have pancake filters and not the box filter, despite my car being a 1969 Amazon.

As you can see I have the options for both types of filter. My carbs are the two bolt version but my blue filters are three bolt version (long, uninteresting story). I'm not fussed about originality. The slimmer (not blue) pancake filters are a cheaper option for me and, to my eyes, look nicer.

So, I could:

• Buy some new blue filters for my two bolt carbs.
• Continue using the smaller, fresher pancake filters but with no stub.

I think that either of these options would be fine, but I have an oil leak problem that I would like to solve before splashing out on new filters.

The third photo shows the problem. I have oil leaking from the filler cap. It is a reasonable amount and noticeable after only a few miles. I have tried the following without being able to eliminate the oil leak from the filler cap:

1. Checked the manifold valve - the one between the carbs - definitely unblocked.
2. Checked the red "ear" on the fuel pump side of the engine - definitely clear.
3. Swapped the two pipes - the oil filter pipe to manifold and red ear to air filter and vice versa.
4. Checked the oil level - I've just changed the oil. 3.4l of fresh oil and "spot on" on the dipstick (not too much oil in the system).
5. Checked the rubber pipes - no blockages.
6. Used only one of the two PCV rubber pipes - connect oil filler cap hose to manifold and vent the red "ear" hose to fresh air.
7. Checked that the oil filler cap is unblocked - I can blow through it easily and have soaked it previously in paraffin to make sure it is clean (this is currently the second oil filler cap I've tried)
8. Replaced the oil filler cap rubber gaskets. I'm using two malleable rubber rings (not crusty) and the cap is on nice and tight - it takes a good bit of force to undo it.

I'm sure I'm missing a really obvious solution to the oil leak. I think I need to resolve this before ordering some new filters (whatever they turn out to be). If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them!

Ed

Might just be my view of your pictures, but something doesn’t look right.

Check your plumbing here, from Ron’s website.

https://www.sw-em.com/pcv_diagrams_a...tm#PCV_Options

Can you not just use the base from the blue filter for the thinner filters?

You have a bit of a mixture there. You have a B20 so that system has to either work as designed or changed back to one of the B18 systems. As said look at the diagrams on the SWEM page or in your Haynes if you have one. The basic difference is that the flow through the systems are the opposite way round. Yes you can blow through the cap because basically it's just a plain tube. Only one rubber ring needed but you can tweak the 2 small tabs to set the sealing force if needed. On the B20 the flow is inwards from the inside of the air filter. Therefore clean air. If you take the cap off and put your hand over the hole you shouldn't feel the air wanting to come out. If it does your system is closed the wrong way. Do you have the small PCV valve in the hose just above the ear? If so is it fitted the right way round. Not sure why that hose is so long but not a problem. If the engine runs OK otherwise you probably have the correct nipple in the manifold at the other end of that hose.
This problem comes up frequently and it's always down to the wrong set up for the engine. Volvo, bless them, did try and keep the fumes in the engine with the B20 and that can only happen if you stick to their routing and valving.
The adaptor shown only works with the alloy back plate that you have on your rear carb. If used it needs to have longer studs fitted for bolting to the front carb.
I note another small connection on your inlet manifold. I assume that is closed off. It was probably a connection for a vacuum gage. at some point in the past.

Forum;

Good info as always from Derek!...I don't quite know or understand why this thread is blossoming as it is...the PCV Sys looks essentially OK...the only questions I might still have is if there is a PCV Valve above the Oil Trap (Ear?), and why that hose is so much longer than the original.

Thanks guys for reference!

Cheers

Thanks!
 

Thanks to all who responded. Very much appreciated.

Derek asked some good questions (as usual). Thanks.

Yes, I can feel air coming out. I held a paper towel above the rocker cover opening and it was blowing upwards. Does this mean I should swap the hoses around and connect the "ear" oil trap to the carb and the oil filler cap to the manifold?

No. I've attached a photo. It is the ear with the flame trap in it.

Well, since I've tried pretty much every available configuration one of the tests was to route the ear to fresh air. I did this by routing the hose to the grill under the brake servo (see attached) and to do this I needed a long bit of hose. I've since cut it back so that it looks "about right".

Well, the engine does run pretty well, other than the oil leak. Fingers crossed the current set up will cure this. I'll report back once I've had a chance to drive the car.