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-   S40 / V40 '96-'04 General (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=17)
-   -   S40 V40 Parts: CEM / relay needed (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=166417)

VolvoS402003Diesel Nov 9th, 2012 16:28

CEM / relay needed
 
I had the dreaded headlight CEM issue on my 2003 diesel S40 but needed the car for a few long journeys so I just ran a wire across from the working light to the non-working light and both lights worked for a while - now both have stopped working - it appears both Relays are now busted.... I think I overloaded the good one. As you can see I am not an electrical expert.

I have been trying to locate a replacement CEM (Part 30621305) or relays P1CN012W1 with no joy - does anyone know whether alternative relays or CEM will work?

I am based in Ireland and finding it hard to locate the parts.

gatos Nov 9th, 2012 17:05

I am pretty certain I have a 30621305 CEM. Will let you know later on tonight

Also, for future reference, we have a WANTED section here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=162 where you may get more replies:)

ti2dw Nov 10th, 2012 07:16

Try RS Supplies on mail order. Part number 217-2876. I just fitted two replacements to our 2000 S40 this weekend. They cost £8.64 for the pair including delivery. Many thanks to the others on this forum who pointed me in the right direction

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-la...633D4E4F4E4526

ciaranr Nov 11th, 2012 02:27

As per ti2dw :thumbs_up:, two of RS 217-2876 did the job for me, although I got a friend who's good with solder to do the work, it requires a fair bit of heat to get the old relays out and is not for the feint of heart...

achatv40 Aug 30th, 2013 09:09

thanks
 
Thanks for the part number as been trying to find the part and RS are only 2mins fom my work so no delivery. just got to hope it fixes my headlight as MOT in 2 weeks.

Thanks again

caprirob Aug 30th, 2013 12:42

If you did the bridge-bodge from one good lamp to the other you will have fried the CEM

I had this exact issue, spent ages removing and re-soldering in new relays and it didnt work.

You need a good known-working CEM

richard pratt Dec 16th, 2015 01:54

CEM / relay needed
 
I am a bit confused: the replacement relays are rated at 15A but the bulbs are rated at 12v and 55w giving 4.6A so there should be plenty of spare capacity, yet as an earlier post said, bridging (done by our garage - whoops!) fried the second original relay (rated at 20A) (if not the whole circuit board - not sure about this at the moment);
I guess my biggest question is therefore - if I do replace the relays, how well will the new relays last?

thanks

Car: Volvo V40 on a 52 plate

commonman80 Apr 5th, 2017 17:52

No, no, no... Never Bridge like that... You'll fry the board components... The best way to have head lights until you get the relays you need is to disconnect both low beam head lights and wire them the old fashioned way. Direct to the battery with a completely separate switch.. That way you bypass the CEM and the computer all together...

The old way still works you know. Especially in an emergency like needing your car to get around... However if you're young? you probably don't know the old school way. Being bought up your entire life depending on computers and all LOLOL!!!

In my s40? Most of my lights are wired direct to the battery. Because I couldn't find the relays for my CEM... However, now that I've found where to get them. (Thanks to you guys.) I'll be ordering them to Install... Good luck repairing your CEM. But please remember this. Today's circuit boards are current sensitive... If you start bridging components? you can cause all sorts of problems to not only the board you're bridging on? But damage other circuit boards in your vehicle... Or, even cause wires that weren't designed to conduct certain higher loads? To heat up and short to the metal they running/laying on... Creating a mess to repair... FYI...

loely Apr 5th, 2017 18:41

Bridging
 
If you have to bridge ,take 2 old relais (junkyard or anny oyher car) and let the working lamp bridge go to the coil of one relais.(85).The other side of the coil (86) to the earth .Take a fuse and connect it at one side to the main contact (30) and after the fuse go to the battery and connect. just take two female standart connectors the fit on the fuse.The last contact you use to go to the non working light(87) and you risk nothing to be fried and with the fuse your cable is protected against.....
Repeat for the other beam and you can look fore the right parts without a hurry.


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