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-   -   "740 2.4 TD Water Pump" (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=2689)

sepp Oct 27th, 2003 13:13

"740 2.4 TD Water Pump"
 
Can someone tell me if the water pump is exactly same item as on the original VW LT application for this engine, or was it modified IN ANY WAY by Volvo when they sourced the engine? I ask because my water pump has started leaking badly (not the 'o' ring seal, the actual pump), and I have now bought one from a VW commercial vehicle dealership (because of the much cheaper prices, I have had other parts from them) ready to have the garage fit for me, and need to know if it is exactly the same. I would guess that they are the same as the ones used on the LT, I can't see why Volvo would have altered the water pumps, but I need to be certain.

Thanks All.

Peter Milnes Oct 28th, 2003 01:15

RE:
 

It should be the same Sepp. Most of the bits are the same except for things like the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper and the location of the dipstick. It goes into the sump from behind the flywheel on the LT35, rather than ahead of the fuel pump/filter. The sensors are usually stamped Volvo with a Volvo part number in addition to their Bosch part number.

All the best, Peter

sepp Oct 28th, 2003 17:00

RE:
 
How difficult is it to fit the water pump yourself, how do you fit one?

Thanks,


Peter Milnes Oct 29th, 2003 01:44

RE:
 

You need to remove the auxilliary drive belts and the cambelt cover which should expose the pump on the passenger side of the engine. Then drain coolant to below the level of the water pump. You will need to ensure that the cambelt cannot become dislodged from the cam gear or the crankshaft gear as the tension is adjusted by the water pump pulley. Slacken the bolts that hold the water pump and allow it to move inwards till you can safely remove it without dislodging the cambelt. Make sure that the seal ("O"-ring) comes away whole. Thoroughly clean the mating area before refitting the new "O"-ring then refit the new pump making sure that the "O"-ring remains in it's place. tighten the bolts sufficiently to hold the pump against it's mating face then adjust the belt tension by moving the water pump radially keeping it tight to the mating face. When corrct tension is achieved tighten the pump bolts to the required torque. Then replace the cambelt cover and auxilliary drive belts. Re-tension the drive belts and go and have a cup of tea (or coffee) after cleaning your hands etc (this stops the lady of the household throwing you out and hosing you down!).

All the best, Peter

sepp Oct 29th, 2003 09:31

RE:
 
Thanks very much for that Peter.

Cheers,

sepp Oct 29th, 2003 16:12

RE:
 
Hi again, I have just had a look at it with the cambelt cover off, yes I think it is leaking, but you still can't actually see coolant leaking out with it running. Would there be coolant all over the drivers side of the engine with it leaking, because I couldn't see how it got over to THAT side of the engine. I originally thought the pump was where the fan pulley is on the drivers side, I didn't realise it was on the side it is. Why does all the coolant appear on the drivers side of the block, is it because it is somehow thrown to that side by the pump pulley when it leaks? It is weird, because it just doesn't look as though it is being. Although I must admit it does seem to be leaking a little, all the inside of the cambelt cover was wet with coolant, and I saw a little on the edge of the pump toothed pulley, but it was by no means all dripping wet with coolant as I thought it would be!
There is wet on the edge of the head gasket where you can see it at the front of the head (drivers side corner), but again, I suppose it could have all been thrown off of the pump. All down the drivers side of the block to about half way along the block towards the bulkhead is wet with coolant, and a fair bit around the big ally bracket that holds the engine fan assembly to the block (drivers side).


Cheers,

Peter Milnes Oct 30th, 2003 01:50

RE:
 

That could be due to the radiator driver's side tank becoming faulty or split and showering everything on that side with coolant. Unless someone replaced your rad with a brass tanked one it is possible for the plastic ones to split when approaching the ten years old point. The overflow bottle is also on that side as is the pressure cap on it. These are all points to check for coolant loss. It would need to be a split in the cambelt cover on the driver's side for any water pump gasket leak to allow coolant to cover the driver's side of the engine. Try running the engine with the cambelt cover removed and give the radiator a thorough check along with the overflow bottle and hosing (small one to underside of bottle has been known to split between radiator and bottle).

All the best, Peter.

sepp Oct 30th, 2003 10:51

RE:
 
I did run without cambelt cover and could not spot any leak, have checked the rest and can see no leaks (also had full pressure test carried out by garage and it was they after they'd carried out this test who told me it was the water pump leaking). Would it be all down drivers side of engine IF it were the head gasket leaking externally on that side?

Thanks,

Peter Milnes Oct 31st, 2003 01:42

RE:
 

That is a possibility, Sepp. But if the garage carried out a pressure test that would have shown up as coolant pouring down the side of the block. If the water pump is leaking it is most likely the gasket ("O"-ring) or the water pump bearing that has given up the ghost .

All the best, Peter

Dave M Oct 31st, 2003 06:47

RE:
 
Is that "Achari Ghosht" or "Rogan Ghosht" there Peter??

:9 :+ ;-) :D :D


Regards
Dave M


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