PV544 Jacking Point
 

I have recently bought a PV544
My question is about Jacking points.
The underneath of the car is generally in good order with no obvious damage to outer sills. There are however some "soft" spots roughly corresponding with the front and rear ends of the two sills. I have arranged for these to be patched by a reputable welder along with a minor repair to the upper body work.
As it stands the car has no Jacking Points. This contrasts with the information that PV444s should have one each side and PV544s 2 each side.

My question is can anyone tell me the correct location of the Jacking points. I was thinking that the measurement from the jacking point to the end of the sill (front and rear) would be a good indication.

The next question is whether people would actually fit them if they are missing. I have actually bought 4 but a preliminary conversation with the welder suggests that they would complicate the welding process and would not be necessary for making points that are strong enough for jacking the car.

The car has been formerly used for rallying and I was also wondering whether they might have been removed because they could catch on rough terrain.

Any thoughts - and particularly measurements would be very welcome.

Welcome to the forum. You'll probably get more responses if you post in the appropriate section of the forum - “PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General“. This “Wants” section is generally for finding parts etc.

Not sure how they “would not be necessary for making points that are strong enough for jacking the car.”. It would seem that jacking points are required, as Volvo intended, otherwise you’d need to Jack the car at points not intended for the purpose, and potentially cause damage.

Also “welder suggests that they would complicate the welding process”. Sounds like he just doesn’t want to do the required work.

Good luck.

The jacking points are roughly 1 1/2 inches from where the wings abut the sills.That is the edge of the horizontal part that attaches to the sill.
If you want to use an original jack you will need them, otherwise jack under the axle or front subframe.

Thanks
 

Just the information I was looking for.

Jacking points and adequately strong points
 

Thanks for your advice + the advice re thread placement.
I am not claiming any knowledge in this area, so am rather reliant on advice from the experts, enthusiasts and professionals.
I have, of course jacked up various cars good and bad ancient and modern over the years some with and some without obvious jacking points.
The implication here is that as standard the underside of the sills is not strong enough to bear the weight of the car (or a proportion of it) concentrated in an area the size of the Jack Head.
This car was previously used for rallying and its last but one owner was a designer for a Formula One racing team. Indeed when the car was bought from him the other vehicle in the Garage was a million pound sports car built to his own design.
The possibilities that occur to me are
a) He removed the jacking points because the car was just going to be used for off road rallying and they could catch on things.
b) he removed the jacking points because (at that time) the underside of the sills were strong enough to take a jack.
c) He took the view that you don't use the underside of the sills to jack up an old car.
d) One of many possible explanations I haven't thought of.

The welder was recommended to me and I would trust him to make a good job at a fair price, however I suspect that you are right in the suggestion that he would like to minimise the work. On the other hand, I am sure that he will do what I ask if my instructions are clear enough.

There may be strengtheners inside the sill to take the weight of the jacking point. The sill would need to be cut open to check on these and repair them. I have new sills waiting to be fitted to my PV, I will not be fitting jacking points, better to jack up on the subframe or axle and they are prone to rust out.
Cheers
Richard

Hello Richard
Thanks for your contribution
I can see that it would be better to use a jack on the subframe or axle if the sill or jacking point was likely to give way - but this seems to run counter to the almost routing provision of jacking points on cars of all ages. is it just an old car thing or would you recommend it for new cars as well.
The jacking points I have are very substantial (thick) and I would imagine they would last well with painting and maintenance.
I take your point about cutting the sill open - and this may have been the concern of the welder i have spoken to but as it stands, I will suggest he does just that - including checking on the state of whatever is inside - even if it takes him more time and therefore costs me more money!

No PV444 owners out there to explain how that model managed with one jacking point each side!

Did the 444 use the single post Bilstein ratchet Jack? That is similar or the same as old Beetle jacks I think. If the jack point is central it will lift the whole side up if you are careful?

re 444 jack
 

hello derek hope your well re 444 jack yes the long post nike original jack as u said long post with a skew type thread for rachet handle this jack is the almost same as amazon jacks but with minus handle…444 longer post.,,,,,,re rear pv544 panel with jacking point you can easily check from inside by removing trim to check the inner reinforcing support piece prone to rusting..best regards johnnypv/duett

Hi John. Yes well thanks, hope you are too. I've heard of the jacks being called Nike (not that Nike) but thought they were made by Bilstein.