It doesn't want to die!
 

By means of an update, finally good news on my 760 V6 project...it actually started!

After eliminating most things, I was literally about to put it up for sale on here as I'd lost the will with it, my final idea was to replace the Crank Sensor again as I was suspicious of the quality of the one I'd already replaced.

Upon attempting to remove the sensor, the s*dding thing snapped in two, leaving the sensor hole filled....and it was at this point I almost wept. But some perseverance with a Dremel and a screw to pull the remainder out worked. Not sure exactly what fell into the hole but it wasn't much if anything :shocked:

So fitted the new sensor and knock me down with a feather the thing coughed and spluttered, and a few turns of the key left it running under its own power for the first time in over 10 years!

Of course this only shows the next list of issues to sort.

1. Exhaust: the downpipe and first silencer box is shot. I have managed to put bands around the downpipe holes, but the silencer needs to be replaced. problem is, I can't see this sold anywhere...it's a 2 in, one out silencer for a B280E non-cat. Any ideas anyone?
2. Minor water leak - looks like a rad, will need to investigate.
3. Underbonnet smoking - looks like oil being burnt off the LH exhaust (my other car's an aircooled 911 (i.e. expensive oil sieve) so used to this phenomenon!) Hoping it will just go away :confused_smile:
4. Car needs a service. Was going to do a coolant flush (and I hear comma G48 is the coolant to use), plus an oil change...any recommendations on oil?
5. Does take a while to start...often on the second key turn after an initial splutter. I'll see how this goes.
6. Tyres. They are all shot so this will be easy to sort.
7. Sunroof. Opens nicely. Does not close...
8. Bonnet & boot struts knackered.
9. New front indicators needed. Copy parts on order from ECP.
10. Brakes are obviously rusty and need cleaning up, hopefully not replacement. I will do a brake fluid flush though.

So plenty to do, but with some renewed enthusiasm...I will not be beaten! (this week anyway) :regular_smile:


So exciting times ahead.

Glad you're making progress! I learned from bitter experience that genuine is the way to go for a crank sensor on my V6 Omega,cheapo aftermarket just don't work for long-if at all.

Great news! I'm shocked by the CPS though, suggests it's been dropped at some point before you got it! I'd send it back under warranty though if possible.

Most of those other things i've been through with mine, i'll do some digging tomorrow and see if i can find all the relevant details. Tyres, 195/65/15, vast improvement on the stupid 185/60/15 and cheaper too!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254730420119

That's what i've had on mine for the past 5 years, replacing two because of a tracking problem caused by the pothole from hell outside the local cemetry!

Gunsons Easibleed is the easiest thing to use for changing the brake fluid, comes with a cap that fits the MC perfectly.

Engine oil, NAPA 10W40 semi-synth, add about 0.5L of NAPA MV ATF to the engine before refilling with oil and use a genuine filter. It's tight around the filter because of the oil cooler. Oil capacity is 6L so look for a deal on it.

Comma G48? :nah: You need a concentrated antifreeze, ethylen glycol and i'd strongly recommend a full reverse flush and a new 'stat too. Will give more details later with the other bits.

For now though, there's a pillow seductively calling me to the land of nod!

Glad it's up and running anyway! :thumbs_up:

Comma G48 is Concentrate EG Dave. It does have some addtives that Super Coldmaster doesn't have. I think quite a few people on here use G48 concentrate in their Redblocks as well

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-131741-...ncentrate.aspx

I only had a quick look last night Mark, all the results i found then were ready-to-use/diluted. I'll have another look later when i do the other research for the various bits he's going to need like the exhaust - took me several months to find the bits i needed for mine!

1. https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/c...Exhaust-System

https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/c...s/VOL2004/1/33

Front pipe ^^^^^, they list the front box in the main exhaust system (first link) but i can't find it separately. Be aware they are part of Autodoc so the parts may come from Germany.

2. Try Radweld Plus in the gold bottle. Alternatively radiators are available but they're £OUCH!

3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232909090076 and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332783886814

Adjust the valve clearances while you're at it! :thumbs_up:

4. Oil already suggested, if you use G48 concentrated (see above for discussion on what i found last night) then add some cooling system flush, Comma X-Stream is a good one, run the engine until warm (15-20 minutes) then allow to cool.

Remove the thermostat and refit the housing. Remove the top hose from the radiator and insert a garden hose (snug fit if it has a Hozelock style fitting on the end) and turn on, it will reverse flush the system. Leave it running for about 30 minutes or if it runs clear before that, another 5-10 minutes after running clear.
Drain the majority of the water now in the system by removing the bottom hose from the rad then refit. Add 5L of concetrated antifreeze, fit a new 'stat and seal (use silicone grease on the rubber seal both in the groove inside for the 'stat and on the outside) cleaning the lands in the housings of any debris/corrosion to help with getting a good seal, refit the top hose to the rad and top up via the expansion tank with water and fit the cap. Start engine and run up to temperature, checking for leaks. Leave overnight to cool and check the level next morning before starting. Top up with water to the MIN mark on the tank if needed, refitting the cap tightly.

5. "Flick" the starter on the key - turn to position 3/start and release as soon as the starter turns the engine. You should hear the fuel pumps run for 1-2 seconds then stop. Now try starting, should fire instantly - did you renew the rotor arm yet?

6. Tyres suggested last night.

7. Get some contact cleaner and squirt it in the gap at the top of the sunroof switch between the rocker and switch body. Exercise the switch in both direction vigorously for a few minutes, give another squirt then leave to evaporate. Meanwhile grease the sliding parts of the sunroof mech with silicone grease and smear the same into the rubber seal round the panel. Leave to soak in then gently wipe off the excess. Now try closing the roof with the switch and igntion on - you may have to start the engine to give it a bit of a voltage boost. Once close, check the tilt function and with the roof panel tilted, smear silicone grease into the parts of the seal you couldn't reach while it was open in the slide position. Again let soak for 15-20 minutes then gently wipe off the excess. Also lube any parts of the mech previously not seen.

8. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...60-v90-9463056

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...40-960-s90-v90

Couldn't find in the UK when i needed them, those i did manage to find (can't remember which now) were about 4 times the price in the UK so even with S&H were cheaper from fcpeuro.

9. Hopefully ECP get it right!

10. Answered lsat night! :thumbs_up:

I got these tailgate struts Dave https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121866292...xoCV98QAvD_BwE

Yeah, they're for a 940 though Mark with a steel tailgate. Not sure i'd fancy putting stronger struts on an aluminium tailgate! :err: :nah:

I thought rear ones were all the same ? The FCP ones are listed as fitting pretty much all 7 and 9 series cars

The Stabilus are 320nm eject and the cheaper ones are 300nm eject

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car...uts.html#10101