Need some quick advice re alternator
 

Hi all,

Im just about to start replacing my alternator, belt, and tensioner after my electrics goes a bit crazy a few weeks ago with several error messages, one of which was Power System Service Urgent.

The consensus was alternator has packed up, plus pretty common on C30's. I tested my battery which showed 11.64v with engine off, and 11.65v with engine running, so looks like the alternator isnt charging the battery.

I forgot to disconnect my battery while Ive been waiting for the parts to arrive and so expected to be jumping the car this morning to move it round the back where I can do the work. However.... I got in the car, all electrics came on, and the car started on the first trun of the key. A little laboured but it has been sitting for over a week.

The only different thing I did do last week was use my key to lock the car instead of the central locking, this was so I didnt activate the alarm which I had my suspicions was draining the battery, after reading that the lithium alarm battery lasts 10-15 years and when its dead will start to draw power from the main battery, draining it.

The fact that the car started just now with the alarm being deactivated for the past week makes me think it could be the alarm draining the battery while my car sits there week in week out, and possibly not the alternator. Although my multimeter says that it is... I guess it could be both I suppose

Before I start dismantling my car I could do with some helpful friendly advice :)

TIA

Just an update....

Decided to make a start as the engine and alternator got very hot just moving the car round the back, so something is definitely not right.

Im down to the alternator now, move all the crap out the way. The belt is goosed, probably not far off snapping; loads of cracks, splits, and bits of ribs missing, and shiny. The alternator spins freely as well so Im wondering if it was just the belt slipping, worn and possibly the tensioner as well, and charging the battery but not properly for the amount of driving I do in the car i.e. very little.

As Im at the stage now of removing the old and installing the new I might as well replace everything as I bought it all now. But does anyone know if there is a way to test the alternator out of the vehicle, so that if it works I can sell as a 2nd hand, working, alternator?

TIA

11.something when the engine is running + hot as hell = goosed

I see what your thining "belt slipping not driving it properly = low voltage output"
sadly that isnt the case, esp when you add in the "bloomin hot"
its goosed,
sounds like the belt is goosed as well
so good call on belt + alternator + tensioning pulley replacement

take the goosed one back to the factors and get the exchange £ off it

Cheers Andy...

Yep, all done now and Im getting 14+v with engine running, so was defo the right thing to do 👍🏼.

There is still a squeak noise coming from somewhere that I thought would go once I change the belt, but it's still there, like an old fan belt noise I used to get on an old car. But I dont think these have fan belts do they?

If I have an undiagnosed issue still with the alarm battery, im guessing once I charge this battery up a bit by going for a long drive, then then check the voltage when I get back, with the engine off. Then if I dont end up using it for another week as per, and check the voltage again before using it... if it has dropped significantly then might be cause to look into the alarm battery. Because if the alarm battery is OK then surely my main battery voltage shouldn't really drop, should it?

Im going to change my oil tomorrow as well while everything is accessible. I just want to check, in the pics Ive attached, that is my oil tank there isnt it? And I drain off by undoing that nut in the bottom?

Also, dont suppose you or anyone has any idea how to manually lock the boot on a C30 do you? Ive not used the central locking / alarm yet until I take it for a long drive to charge it up a bit, so have locked the doors with the manual key... but cant seem to lock the boot as its all electric, no key hole! Nothing on Google either. Design floor!?

Cheers
Rob 🙃

It looks like your crankshaft pulley rubber damper is breaking up see all the red rust dust around it ...
the pulley nut looks like it has never been disturbed , do you have it serviced properly? cambelt and aux belt should be changed every 10 years or 150,000 miles which ever comes first . a properly serviced car will never have a belt in that state you mentioned , I reckon its all original .

Hi Clan, it could all well be original y'know. Ive only had the car a few years, and one of those was mainly lockdown so not used.
I bought it with service history but I haven't got it serviced myself. I just do bits myself as and when. The guy at volvo did say to me 10 years or 90k, whichever comes first. Its an 09 plate so over 10 years, but only on 69k. I was only a few bolts away from the cam belt today and did think I could've done it at the same time as the aux. But undoing the engine mount and supporting the engine put me off. I will have to get onto it soon.

Where is the rubber damper on the crankshaft pully, is it under the bolt? Like a rubber washer?
Could it be the pully that I can hear squeaking do you think?
That pully should be easy enough to change shouldn't it? Just take the tension off the tensioner and remove the belt, replace pully?

The crank pulley is in 2 parts with a rubber bonded in between to damp oy vibrations ,
If i were you i would get all the belts and pulleys and crankshaft pulley replaced with Genuine Volvo Parts as they are well over due.
The cambelt change interval is 150,000 miles or ten years , the 90,000 interval is for the later D2 .
Its very important to have these engines serviced correctly with the correct oil and fuel filter or the oil turns to sludge and will eventually ruin the engine ..It happens all the time with neglected Citroen vans which use the same engine.