2001 S40 Front main seals
 

2001 S40 148k on the clock
Replaced in last 3-4 Years, for reference
** Oil Trap / PCV Box / Breather Box - all associated parts
** Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler, VVT Gear, 3 Camshaft seals, 1 Crankshaft seal, 2 Hoses to Oil cooler, Serpentine Belt, Replaced new/oiley U-shaped PCV hose with original/better shape
** Fuel Pressure Regulator
** Flex pipe – welded new one on – now car is quiet !
** Both Engine Coils
** Ignition wiring harness – due to shutting off, sputtering, and start issues
** Blown Head gasket .. Mechanic pulled the head, sent it out to be cleaned, resurfaced the head, machined the valves and seats, adjusted valves, installed new valve seals, installed a thermostat kit, and threw in a new coil.
** Cost for above = $zero$ = long story
** Sway Bar Bushings, Steering Rack Boots
** Oil Cap Gasket

Current Issue = very minimal oil leak
Mechanic says it is the front engine seals

** Assuming this is the answer - how long before the seals blow and blow up the engine ?
** What else can I replace while he is "down there" replacing he seals ?
** I also need a Suspension Strut Bumper = an expensive repair
... I can't find a "Quick Strut" which would be a quick plug and play repair

Thanks much for your help or comments.

Tom in Carolina

Hi Tom,
Maybe lost in translation; suspension strut bumper, what are you referring to specifically? The top strut swivvel mount?
Crank oil seal will eventually contaminate the timing belt resulting in failure of the belt etc etc etc.
You've come so far...even if it's only in dollars!

Suspension Strut Bumper + Front Seals oil leak
 

Hey Bimmer49 - apologies for the confusion.


#1 is the Suspension Strut Bumper
Part Number: 30884198

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...v40-30884198oe

My mechanic, specializing in Volvos with 20+ year of experience, said the clunking noise I hear is the Suspension Strut Bumper. Bangs/Clunks with bumps and squeak squeak squeak all other times unless the car is turning to the right or left – regardless of speed. Even slight turns on the highway stop the squeaking !

He actually advised me not to fix it due to the resale value of the car… so that definitely added to his credibility. Any accident would probably “total it” and I’d be lucky to get $1,000 for this 20 year old car. I am looking into alternative car insurance with Hagerty classic car insurance coverage.


#2 BEFORE I brought the car to the mechanic - I saw a very small oil leak on the garage floor - under the right side near the middle of the engine area. But for the past couple of days - the leak has not shown up*** on the garage floor again.

*** This could have something to do with a recent exuberant 30 minute ride on a highway with a suggested speed limit of 70mph. I removed the underbody splash shield a few years ago during the heavy repair cycle I went thru. meaning – burning or blowing off any oil on the engine.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Vol...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Due to the oil leaks from the PCV / cam shaft seals leaking so much – there is a lot of oil on the lower half of the engine / parts of the car. Several sources have said not to spray it with Simple Green, etc and then spray it with a hose. Apparently this causes various issues. Have you ever done this with a Volvo ?

Anyway, the mechanic said he saw a little excess oil on the “front seals” = is this the crankshaft seals ???


Thanks for the encouragement. I really like the car and would like to keep it forever – it is driven just around town and occasional 5 hour round trips


Best,

Tom in Carolina

Tom: Personally I don't think that bump stop would produce/allow to produce the noises you describe.
Check the top mount (3 bolts) for splits and excess lift with the wheel off the ground and a bar under the wheel. Any lift will cause a bonk and movement in the top bearing mount. If that moves you will get a "groaning" when steering.
A "cheap" fix is to get a strut from a breakers yard.
Very easy to change but make sure you get like for like (go by the top mount design, they did change Ph1 to Ph2), anti roll bar position and length, spring diameters. You CAN fit the later type IF you buy a pair AND the anti roll bar drop links. TBH Ph1 mounts are much more durable.
If any engine has suffered oil leaks, a steam clean would be required and a thorough clean of the under tray. It's the only true way of confirming the repairs have been successful.