ETM Removal
 

Well just spent 5 hrs removing the ETM, access it god dam awful. Even to remove the boost pipe to the ETM takes forever and is blind. I've left the job for now as the cable for the ETM is traped behind the rear support bracket for the starter motor, I may have to cut it off. Regards Peter

Disconnect the battery then remove the starter motor support bracket, its easier than cutting the ETM cable, that said if you do cut the ETM cable make sure its disconnected first and the six wires are colour coded so you can solder/ splice them back together - Mike

5hrs lol did you remove the fan that gives alot of extra room i undone starter motor bolt bent bracket and slid wire out and the etm is easy with 10mm spanner took me 30mins remove n refit with taking rad out

No I left it in and wrestled working blind. Volvo should have made a jubilee success clip with an extended nut so it would stick outside the ETM casing then you could use a ratchet spanner on it. Regards Peter

the rada only 2 10mm bolts and 2 plugs and it lifts out it makes removing the etm hassle free

I sent the ETM to Spokoluzik at http://volvodiagnostic.com/ and he has changed both potentiometers for Hall effect non contact devices and it is on it's way back to me. Before you ask £120 all in and no need to Reload Volvo S/W as it is the original ETM. 1 year warrantee. Regards Peter

Thats a decent enough price, let us know how it behaves when its back in the car and what was the turn around time in getting it repaired, I think a few other forum members will benefit from this information - Mike

Agree....be very interesting to hear how it performs once it's back on the car.
I just know my module is gonna go pear shaped in the near future..so far no problem..and at 100k+ miles and 13 years I guess it's done well for a crap design part..LOL.!!
So do give us feedback please.

Neil

I refitted the ETM and it fired up straight away. Once it was warm I took it for run to allow the ETM to adapt and it now runs very smoothly and has also overcome a flat spot I had. The dual channel hall effect device replaces both sets of pots so the SW2 element is internally disconnect and wired across to one hall effect of the SW1 module. Regards Peter

if my current problems lead to the ETM I am going to have to remove it for refurbishment ( I hope 'volvodiagnostic' are still in business !).
It looks as if removing the fan/shroud gives some working room as noted in one of the posts.
Removing the fan/shroud looks to be fairly easy however, any problems I should be aware of in advance ?
Thanks