How to fix your 140 series clock!
 

Back in October, i asked if anyone knew who could repair my 145 clock, it being doornail dead. No reply. i decided to have a look inside, here's result: on back of clock are three little nuts holding cover on, one is a locknut, same idea as them on alloy wheels, here it's a bit of plastic, snap it off with pliers. The little nuts have lock-fluid on, it may be that one stud will sheer, no matter.
Having got cover off, u'll see that the movement is a standard clock movement, spring activated. The spring only runs for about 30 seconds, then it is instantly rewound by a little solenoid, when contacts, like those for your ignition, close, as spring winds down. Now, the solenoid has a thermo fuse, made of clay-ey type substance. Over time, i guess, this shatters so interrupting current flow; clock stops. I cleaned off old solder, careful, the soldered contacts are delicate, one seems to be sprung, and inserted a bit of bacofoil, et voila, clock ran as should!
On cover is a little sticker saying: "solder thermo fuse with special solder, fusing point 120c, Warranty only when seal untouched". So, one can deduce the clock was designed for this thermo fuse to be repaired. I fancy the actual soldering is best left to a radio/electronics type of electrician. I'll seek one out an update, here. So, go to it people. Gotta be cheaper than the £250 being asked on ebay.

Interesting and informative, thank you for that. I have 2 of these clocks, one is dead (or maybe just asleep) and the other is supposedly NOS, works but erratically so not much use. I will investigate the dead one first.

That takes me back i used to do that 45 years ago :-) common solder melts at about 350C ...

Did you, now? So you know how to do it? Are you about to become the Forum's resident clock mender, then? My clock is the large one, in console behind gearstick. However, the mechanism is the same size as those smaller ones fitted to the dash, so both types will presumably be "repairable". What i'd like to know is, what is the exact purpose of the low melting point solder? i.e. is the clock susceptible, an subject to, current surges? Can you comment, Clan? Cheers, Mark.

I doubt if there are many of these broken keinzle clocks around now 🕙

My clock has now been running well for two days, on it's baco-foil fuse. An auto electrician suggested using normal solder, an then fitting an inline fuse of suitable rating. According to manual, the clock is rated at 2 watts. That gives an amperage of .16 , see if can find a suitable fuse. Also, i've emailed Kienzle, inviting comments an if they will do a refurbish.

Clan, surely every 140 has a clock, must be a few about? Or have people converted them to a modern quartz movement? Anybody done this?

Not many failed ones ...
This fused link was playing up even when the 140 was still current . So any still around today would have been repaired a long time ago i would think .
The same mechanism was used in the small clock in 1970-72 models too .

Forsooth. The same clock was also, according to Kienzle's website, fitted to Roll's, Aston's an Bentleys; i shouldn't think customers for those would have been best pleased wi dead clocks after a yr or so.

Hi there - would it not be possible to put a simple 160mA inline glass fuse?

Mmm, don’t c y not. Am still running on bacofoil, me. Some months ago, I found a classic instrument repairers in sports an classic mag, said could do complete overhaul for £150, inc the actual movement. Do quite a few, he said.