Radio Wiring guide
 

Hello,

This is purely here as a guide for when you want to remove the Standard head unit and replace it with a more updated aftermarket one.

I couldn't get hold of the wiring harness adapter 'on the day' so i thought i'd study the wiring diagrams and convert the standard head unit wiring (shown below) to the ISO connectors.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps575272f8.jpg

When taking a look at the wiring diagram, you'll notice the letters denoting colours, these are listed below:

BL - BLUE
BN - BROWN

GN - GREEN
GR - GRAY

OR - ORANGE
P - PINK

R - RED
SB - BLACK

VO - VIOLET
W - WHITE

Y - YELLOW

In the wiring diagram, page 140 is where you'll need to direct your attention:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps57659726.jpg

On your new ISO connectors they should be labeled to show which is which, so cut, strip and either solder or crimp to join the new cables on ending up with this:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf0928d33.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps86329210.jpg
Large Red = Common live
Brown and White = Ignition live/remote
Large Black = Earth

These are the only ones i've used to ensure that the radio is useable.

The other cables i have left out because they aren't essential to the Radios operation, unless you wish to dim the radio or boost the aerial signal; in which case these link to the Central Electrical Module (CEM).

Moving onto the speaker arrangement; you'll notice that there are only 8 wires going into the connector. These are arranged so that the positive and negative are side by side rather than above and below each other.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf797ab58.jpg

Once you have 'amended' these you will be left with this:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps235726ce.jpg

Brown + and white - for the drivers side front
Green/yellow + and Gray - Passenger side front

Yellow/black + and Green/black - to Passenger Rear speaker

Yellow + and Green/white - to Drivers rear speaker

The subwoofer takes a feed off of both these rear speakers and is powered via junction box further along in the car. (small red cable behind the head unit).

The aerial you can strip down and place a new aerial connector on the end of it.
http://budgetcaraudio.co.uk/ds-ebay/...tor/PC5-27.jpg


The tricky bit was fitting the cage, as you can see it doesn't fit in the standard housing.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps5dfad5b0.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6df00c4c.jpg

I had to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back so i can get a snug fit for the cage:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps7e73b43b.jpg

Don't secure it in just yet though, you have to fit the plastic unit back into the console other wise you block the securing screw entry at the bottom.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6629af7f.jpg

Once the cage has been put in, the Stereo connected up: it's time to switch on, set it up and enjoy the music!

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps87a48475.jpg



If there is anything i've missed, don't hesitate to add it below and i can amend the guide to make it as accurate as possible.
Thanks!

Wow! This is superbly helpful, not to mention timely!

I cannot thank you enough!

:thumbs_up:

And so the questions begin...

Are you saying that the sub takes a feed from the rear speakers SOMEWHERE ELSE? So I don't need to worry about a feed for the sub when wiring the stereo so long as I'm feeding the rear speakers?

I ask this because I'm trying to make sense of the butchery committed by the previous owner, and I'm almost certain that the sub isn't running...

Yes, it takes a feed from both speakers (look at diagram where the sub is the large box top left of the drawing).
It's not designed to take ONLY the deep bass sounds, it plays simply like a normal speaker but deeper.

You can see where it takes it's feed from the left and right speaker.

Ok, thanks.

Do you know what powers up the sub amp then? Or is it always on?

At the moment I have sound at all speakers, but not from the sub. Looking at the sub, it doesn't seem to have been disconnected, so I can't understand why there would be no sound.

Gah! I wish that doofus hadn't taken the stereo out!

The sub should always be on, pull the sub out and see whether you get a feed of 9 - 12V from the red wire, using the black as your neutral.
Check to see if it's on when the ignition is off or on stage 1.

The feed for the sub looks like it comes from 44/13 junction point 3

Correction, my sub doesn't work ATM either, will find cure for problem and get back to you

All sorted, make sure that the speaker wires to the back are correct.

Mine required the following:

Rear right speaker: green/white - then yellow as +

Rear left speaker: green/black - then yellow/black as +

Sort that out and the sub should work.

Well, the radio now turns off with the ignition, and speakers are the correct side. It was wired left/right right/left in the back and left/left right/right in the front...

Sub still refuses to work though.

I get 12 volts from the yellow/red wire, but nothing from the red wire.

When I unplug and replug the power plug on the sub, it makes a 'fut' noise, so I wonder if it's just knackered! Will attack the plugs with some switch cleaner and see what happens...

Thanks so much for this guide, it has vastly improved my day!

:thumbs_up:

The sub has Audio feed from the speakers and two voltage supplies. The yellow is a switched live via the ignition, and the red is an on signal 12v if you like from the stereo, bit like a relay takes its main power from the battery and the stereo powers it on and off. If you have no 12v on the red your sub wont work.