V70 Rear Springs Change
 

Hi there, new user here!

Trying to replace a broken rear siding on my p2 FWD D5 V70.

Not going so well currently, I’ve dropped the shock and removed the old spring, by dropping the control arm.

Trying to reseat the new standard spring is a nightmare, I can’t get it aligned properly at all. The bottom tip just pops out from the notch in the seat when I start to jack up the control arm.

Any help or advice is appreciated!
Thanks!

they are total b£$trds to get in and out I know.. I think Volvo uses an internal spring compressor when they do it

have you tried something like a cable tie or twist of gardening wire just to keep it aligned while you jack.

I've read of people using a bit of washing up liquid to help get it in there to start with but it sounds like you're already past that point

The cable tie idea isn’t a bad one, I’ve actually picked up an internal spring compressor today (Sealey) so might have to give that a whizz.

I wonder how much easier lowering springs aren’t to get in?

let us know how you get on with that and add a link to the compressor you use if it works, people will definitely be interested in that :)

lowered springs probably a bit easier but i wouldnt do it myself, the car is heavy and crashy enough through potholes as it is (admittedly that's with polybushed wishbones, subframe bush inserts that I'm thinking of removing, and tyres to 36)

The compressor can be found on a few websites, but it’s also on Amazon!
Sealey AK3842 Coil Spring Compressor, 350mm

Think there was a guy on here had done a few of his T5’s with it, but can’t recall or find his username. Interested to know from him if he did it without dropping any arms, but just compressing the spring and putting it in

Double post sorry!

When I changed the rears on my C70, which are almost the same PITA I used external Hilka 12700055 Coil Spring Compressors; they are a very similar pattern to the Sealey's, but bolts used are just slightly different (but probably made in the same factory) by almost fully compressing the springs with the "hooks located on the second and second to last coil, and rotating the compressed spring at a slight angle they just cleared the lower cup.

Once seated in the lower arm they are much easier to locate in the upper cup - I used tight cable ties either side of each hook to prevent the hooks slipping along the coil. I used a further pair of ties at the mid-point of each coil between the hooks to reduce the risk of the compressors letting go should the hooks have slipped at all. Once you have located them correctly remove the third pair of cable ties then slowly release each compressor no more than half a turn on alternate sides; only remove the "anti-slip" hold ties when the spring is fully released.


However, using internal compressors does make it easier....apparently!

Thanks for all the suggestions men. I’ve done plenty of rear springs before but this really is a challenge.

Ah the fella on here was B1MCP, I can’t tag him as I’ve only brand new.

Keen to know if he did it using compressors alone, and not unbolting any control arms?

Yes, internal spring compressor is the only thing needed.

When I first did this job I tried the control arm thing. It was a nightmare and I ended up using ratchet straps to get things held in place and aligned to get the job done. It can be done but it's just a hack and really not worth the cost of a spring compressor.

Internal Spring compressor is the right way to do it and I've done it several times with the tool without issue . See my post about using a spacer with the Sealey tool.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ghlight=sealey


Good Luck.

Thanks for the info. I’ve only the one side jacked up right now but can’t see why that would make a difference as everything if independent apart from the arb which is detached.

The problem I’m having is getting the lower portion of the spring to sit where it needs too, even if the top is mounted properly in the aluminium cup.

It just springs back outwards, and doesn’t want to sit where it should

Can you take a picture and show us?

Have you got the rubber piece in place (if there was one..)

Strangely even though I don't have a rear roll bar I did find that having both sides jacked equally was seemingly the only way to get the control arm bolt back in.. so there does seem to be some sort of effect

Interesting, I’ll get the other side jacked up to see if it makes any difference.

Yep, I’ve got the rubber piece still indeed.

So, spent another few hours today on this. Got everything perfect, everything bolted back up perfect. The rubber was seated great (had the rubber hat taped round it too. Cleaned the top cup up with the wire wheel, and then used washing up liquid. The bottom of the spring looked great too; and was where it was supposed to be.

Got everything bolted up, snugged up.

Then slowly let the spring compressors off as the final thing, then BONG.

The bottom of the spring just popped forward on me.

At a loss now!

hate to be that guy but .. are you sure they're in the right way up.. and the right springs

you must be pulling your hair out by now, what a palava

Nah I’m glad you quizzed me.

Springs look like they’re the same either way.

BUT: I did find out the springs KYB RA7007 which are actually reenforced springs (which I didn’t know until I googled them!)

Would this be why?

dunno.. have you got the originals there to look at the positioning of the spring ends (relative, top to bottom, are they aligned the same?)

other than that, diameter, length, etc, can't think of any other reason why it would pop out but maybe someone else will come along with other ideas

and if you haven't done the other side yet maybe looking at that will give some clues?

Appreciating all the info and help btw!

Sadly the original spring came out in three pieces, so there was no proper way to confirm this.

I’ve had a thought, when I slackened off the spring compressors for the last time, the weight of the hub was pulling the entire control arm down, in reality I should have keep a jack underneath to keep it up a bit, then places the shock up in and bolted up?

So maybe because the hub was allowed to drop a little (unsupported) then the new spring popped out?

First things first, please accept my condolences. They can be a complete tw*t of a job, mine were bad enough (no compressors due to fitting Eibach lowered springs).

My suggestion would be check the number of total coils on the remnants of the old spring, check the wire diameter, count the number of coils and if possible piece it together to gain some idea of a free-length. If the new springs are an upgrade the wire diameter should be slight thicker. Alternatively they might have reduced the number of coils to increase the rate, increasing the free length only increases the ride height.

My next suggestion regarding fitting requires a degree of bravery and stupidity. Compress the spring off the car and the bind them with what are going to be sacrificial 1" ratchet straps. Simply (lol) fit them to the car, seat them, remove the clamps but leave the ratchet straps in place, bolt up the lower arm and when everything is in place cut the ratchet straps and remove.

Or buy the correct springs from Volvo as a last resort.

If you have to do this also buy some custard to go with your humble pie as its' hard to swallow by itself.

Peace and love, peace and love.

Or buy the correct springs from Volvo as a last resort.


The designation plate on the near side wing, in the engine bay, specifies the correct Volvo springs

Jude

I'm so sorry, I miss read the thread and I thought you had non oem. Many apologies and I hope you have a happy outcome.

this is getting confusing.. OP (Tam9n) IS using non oem i think

latest comment from jnmonaghan was just advising him where to get the info for correct oem

I've just been looking on autodoc for reference puposes and have found at least 3 different types, there's self levelling and non self levelling systems for a start, then there were 2 with distincly different end coil designs (unless that was just a case of 'picture may vary from actual product')

would definitely go back to that VIN plate and check what type yours needs

http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-...code-meanings/

and then use VIDA (or ring the stealership) for the right part number if they're willing to give it out, some aren't

Note to self, take note of who the o.p. is.

Thank you Stuart, this older chap was beginning to think he was even more dim than he is.

internal spring compresser is the way . buy em use em sell em there is always someone abt to do the same job .. no point struggleing to save a few quid beware springs can be deadly .work slowly and carefully:regular_smile:there are some youtube vids on how to use them.

Hi all, so yes I grabbed the number from my vin plate and the rear springs is denoted as “27”

Rang a main dealer and they passed on the OEM part number which was 30748382. Ordered a corresponding spring online “Kilen 66007” which has slightly different dimensions to the sprint I had ordered.

The incorrect springs I purchased were KYB RA7007, which just don’t appear to fit.

I have a set of internal sealey spring compressors, and tried every trick in the book with these to no avail so concluded the spring was simply incorrect for the application.

Done plenty of rear springs accords various platforms before never with any issues.

I will update in a few days the outcome, as I hate coming across a thread with no conclusion!

It is not unusual for the wrong items to be put in the right box, the link for 7007 springs shows a video for fitting front springs. Front springs have a reduced i.d at the top so you would have noticed that.

The links you have posted share quite comprehensive dimensions which make a degree of sense, one lists a free-length of 339 mm and 15mm wire thickness, the other lists 325 mm and 16mm wire thickness. Both list 5 1/4 total coils. The 16mm wire thickness will be a higher rate spring though easier to fit.

Once again good luck.

Hi all,

Just wanted to share some feedback incase it proves useful for someone else but I finally got the new spring in!

Recap: I had a nightmare try to change a spring lately, I ordered a KYB RA7007 (which is heavy duty which I didn’t realise until afterwards!). I used internal spring compressors and every trick in the book, dropping control arms etc but to no avail.

The issue I had was getting the top and bottom aligned, and the bottom popped right back out.

Ordered a Kilen 66007, and it went straight in.

1) I can confirm I also did it this time by dropping the inner (closest to the exhaust) bolt for the control arm. While having a trolley jack underneath, then released the tension.

2) used tape to wrap the rubber top mounting to the new spring.

3) pushing down on the control arm allowed me eventually to wiggle the new spring roughly into place.

4) I used fairy liquid on the rubber mount at the top, and slowly started to used a scissor jack under the hub.

5) at the same time I used my trolley jack further in on the control arm to slowly lift the control arm and compress the spring.

6) by juggling the height of the two jacks, I got the bolt back in most of the way at the inner console bolt hole. (Note, jacking under the hub with the scissor jack allows the control arm to pull a little outward towards the hub

7) getting the bolt lined up with the thread portion of the hub takes some juggling again. Once I had the console bolt mostly in, I removed the trolley jack from under the inner console arm, and put it under the hub. I then used my scissor jack to help move the console arm as needed. In my case, I put a block of wood on the arch liner, then my scissor jack against the brake caliper and manipulated the arm enough to get the bolt in and threaded.

8.) I compressed the new strut a few times, then quickly posted it up in whole compressed and then bolted it in.

9) jack up to put everything under load then tighten up and bolts, bolt up new drop link etc!

Comparing the KYB against the Kilen, the KYB was not only a good portion heavier, but also a little taller too. The pigtails appeared to stop in slightly different places too, which I always get wasn’t quite right with the KYB spring.

To note, I replaced a stock spring without using my internal spring compressors in the end.. so it can be done! But please make sure you do what you’re comfortable with!

All in all, once I had the correct spring - this really wasn’t too bad.

Thanks for ALL the help and suggestions folks!

Even with the right spring it is total ball-ache lol

Glad you got there in the end

Congratulations, I can see the smug look from here.

When I did this job I removed the shock absorber and fitted two standard spring compressors inside the spring and did a lot of spanner twirling to compress the spring.
Worked fine and like most sane people, I have a deep seated fear of compressed suspension springs and a reasonably keen sense of self preservation.

Charles

I think just being aware of the danger is enough, and always being aware of trajectory..

A shotgun is only dangerous if its pointed at someone..

Similarly the spring will decompress rapidly along one axis just make sure none of your body parts are in the way

It is also worth thinking about where you are compressing the spring ie compressing an open spring anywhere near a wall can be bad news.

Being honest once I had the right spring, the job wasn’t too bad at all.

Anyone interested in the Sealey spring compressor for £25 posted in the UK? Payment via paypal