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-   -   Battery trays and battery clamps (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=316311)

Challo May 10th, 2021 22:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2735928)
I will have to introduce you to WMP Chris! :tongwink:

The clamp screw is in a tight place for trying to drill it out as well! What thread is the BMW screw? :thinking:

Not sure on the BMW thread, will check tomorrow.

Yep looks tight. Might have to see how we go with some heat.

Laird Scooby May 10th, 2021 23:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Challo (Post 2735942)
Not sure on the BMW thread, will check tomorrow.

Yep looks tight. Might have to see how we go with some heat.

Make up some WMP Chris, short for Weapon of Mass Penetration. It's 50/50 acetone and Carlube ATF-U, it may work with other synthetic ATFs but i've not tried it, doesn't work well with mineral ATFs at all. Acetone can be bought on ebay cheaply or you can steal your wifes nail varnish remover!

Shake well before each use and keep sealed when not in use to prevent the acetone evaporating. Once shaken it goes pink and frothy, dribble, pour, brush or spray it on to the rusted fastener and leave to soak a few minutes if you can get a spanner on it, in the case of a sheared stud, you may need something like :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163095214936

Worth its weight in gold, the harder you work it, the harder it grips and works for you. Have even used it with a windy gun (it's rated for that) and the siezed studs stood no chance!

If you go down the stud remover route, don't be tempted by cheaper ones, even the same brand as they don't work anywhere near as well. Also once the WMP has done its work, degrease what you can see of the stud with some acetone or similar before fitting the stud remover.

Be careful if you use heat as there are lots of rubber hoses and wiring around there that aren't obviously visible - don't want to make matters worse! :nah:

360beast Jun 16th, 2021 17:57

So things have been rather busy here but I'm planning on starting this little project at the start of next month.

I'm also planning on making jacking points as per this one here...

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...&postcount=119

jpliddy Jun 16th, 2021 19:53

940 tic auto 1995
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 360beast (Post 2745618)
So things have been rather busy here but I'm planning on starting this little project at the start of next month.

I'm also planning on making jacking points as per this one here...

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...&postcount=119

looks very promising LUKE

Laird Scooby Jun 16th, 2021 21:49

I might be interested in some jacking points Luke and quite likely having them fitted - the previous owner seems to have ued the factory jack to change wheels living on a very steep hill - you can guess the rest! :err:

There still solid just a funny shape.......................:shocked:

classicswede Jun 16th, 2021 22:21

Battery clamps that are not a pain to fit would be good

360beast Jun 17th, 2021 13:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2745673)
I might be interested in some jacking points Luke and quite likely having them fitted - the previous owner seems to have ued the factory jack to change wheels living on a very steep hill - you can guess the rest! :err:

There still solid just a funny shape.......................:shocked:

Are they a bit wobbly wobbly?! Fitting shouldn't be a problem either. We could do a round robin, pick the Rover up and sort it then pick the 760 up after dropping the Rover off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicswede (Post 2745684)
Battery clamps that are not a pain to fit would be good

I shall do my best haha.

Laird Scooby Jun 17th, 2021 14:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by 360beast (Post 2745825)
Are they a bit wobbly wobbly?! Fitting shouldn't be a problem either. We could do a round robin, pick the Rover up and sort it then pick the 760 up after dropping the Rover off.

Never used them with the original jack but have used a trolley jack and hockey puck to jack the car with them. Very skew-whiff is probably the best description of them!

As you know, still waiting on the card company but don't see why we couldn't do a round-robin or something along those lines.

TonyS9 Aug 30th, 2021 20:41

So I took advantage of the dry weather and replaced the battery tray and wheel arch bit. Took me all week / 5 days of afternoons and some evenings.

Previously the wing had a hole in the typical place infront of the wheel arch and I have used a spare wing with the same problem, welded it up and got it sprayed during some accident damage repair. Unfortunately the same hole has lead to some problems in the inner guard around where the bumper side support fits, and there are some complex bumps and curves there. Basically the entire corner of the inner wing needed replaced about 3" in. In the end I just did multiple small patches to rebuilt the front corner of the inner wing, up to the square holes for the press-in nut clip things for the wing and bumper mount.

I opted for the full tray replacement and large section of the inner arch, but I think a cut in the right place of the tray might have been easier. The spots come out easy enough if you are precise about it, but it does add a load of time. There are 17 not including the rusted out portion at the inner arch corner. If you are going to try and spray in there you need a nice small gun, with gavity/top feed. Thats next on my xmas list.

I also got my newly sprayed skuttle on to match the new bonnet and wings.

Hopefully thats its for now, although the horn doesn't work, must have damaged something during the work.

Sorry no photos, just too much work and too bad workmanship to show lol.

Next .. rear jacking point.

360beast Aug 30th, 2021 20:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyS9 (Post 2766711)
So I took advantage of the dry weather and replaced the battery tray and wheel arch bit. Took me all week / 5 days of afternoons and some evenings.

Previously the wing had a hole in the typical place infront of the wheel arch and I have used a spare wing with the same problem, welded it up and got it sprayed during some accident damage repair. Unfortunately the same hole has lead to some problems in the inner guard around where the bumper side support fits, and there are some complex bumps and curves there. Basically the entire corner of the inner wing needed replaced about 3" in. In the end I just did multiple small patches to rebuilt the front corner of the inner wing, up to the square holes for the press-in nut clip things for the wing and bumper mount.

I opted for the full tray replacement and large section of the inner arch, but I think a cut in the right place of the tray might have been easier. The spots come out easy enough if you are precise about it, but it does add a load of time. There are 17 not including the rusted out portion at the inner arch corner. If you are going to try and spray in there you need a nice small gun, with gavity/top feed. Thats next on my xmas list.

I also got my newly sprayed skuttle on to match the new bonnet and wings.

Hopefully thats its for now, although the horn doesn't work, must have damaged something during the work.

Sorry no photos, just too much work and too bad workmanship to show lol.

Next .. rear jacking point.

Great to hear you got stuck in and did it Tony!

All of the jigs are sorted for the rear jacking points now and the first one is almost done, just need to get a 14mm hole saw to cut the hole out for the bar to go across and weld it in. Once that's done and I'm happy with the final product (I'm very happy with how it looks now) then they can be made to order.


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