Rear Tailgate Handle repair - Guide
 

Guys

There have been several posts pertaining to sticking rear XC90 tailgate handles, and the associated hassle that causes when locking/unlocking.

I have not seen any permanent fixes - infact, the only "fix" has been the suggestion of lubricant, which is also what Mr Volvo seems to do.

Anyway - the root cause is a short metal hinge "rod" within the rear handle. This rod rusts away, swells as it does, and as a result gets tight in its mounts.

You can confirm this with the tailgate open, looking up into the handle.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/DJB_5378.jpg

So - this guide presents a permanent fix, that will only cost you about £3-£4 and half an hours time. On a difficulty scale of one to ten, this job is probably a three.

Access to the offending hinge requires removal of the rear tailgate trim panels. A full guide to this is within the Volvo instructions for fitting a rear view camera - but wire frame diagrams are not too easy to follow... so....

First, remove the grab handle - this is quick tricky, but is done by inserting a small flat blade sxcredriver in the slots and gently easing the handle out.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5455.jpg

Once out, remove the screw, location shown in the bottom right of this picture.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5458.jpg

Next, the tailgate lamp. This is prised out carefully - you can see the retaining lugs here, so you know what you are aiming for.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5456.jpg

Again - when out, remove the screw...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5459.jpg

Next, work your way around gently pulling the tailgate trim away from the body... these are the clips that are holding it on.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5460.jpg

Now - the lock etc...which, thankfully, you dont need to remove.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5483.jpg

Next - carefully prise the cable from the lock to the tailgate handle out from its clip - this is tricky! Once you have the barrel end of the cable loose, you can unclip the yellow lock and pull the cable end free. This is the worst bit of the job!

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5491.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5496.jpg

Ritey! - I found that removing the number plate lamps make the final stage easy, so its up to you if you struggle and risk damaging paint, or whip them out - its an easy one screw per side and lever them out..

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5465.jpg

Unplug this connector, which feeds the rear number plate lights...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...mberlights.jpg

Lastly, remove the 4, 6mm (10mm head) nuts... you will probably need a deep 10mm socket to reach these..

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5489.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5488.jpg

The central two nuts may need loosening of the rear wiper motor to gain access. If you do this, you dont need to remove it, just undo the three mounting bolts....these bolts can be seen in the lock picture above - with one bolt already removed.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5487.jpg

Now, the whole rear handle/finisher can be removed from outside of the car...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5499.jpg


Close inspection shows the problem... here is the pin - from both sides all rusted up...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5497.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5498.jpg

The hinge pin can now be simply drifted out - and looks like this when removed and cleaned up of rust - what a pitted state. It was originally zinc passivated. When you are removing the pin, you can remove the whole handle, but you may have fun refitting the spring inside! I did remove it too and cleaned it up...your call.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/DJB_5502.jpg


So - to ensure this is a permanent fix, I got some 4mm 304 grade stainless steel rod - easily found from any merchants - or even ebay. I would suggest 304 is selected as it offers better corrosion resistance than the more common and cheaper 303 grade... and we all know what the UK salt is like in winter... An alternative would be to use a stainless MMA welding rod... 4mm is a heft but common grade for them!

The original rod on mine was 108mm long - and I cut the replacement 5mm longer so there was more of an overhang at each end when fitted. More overhang than this may foul the rear body when refitting.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/DJB_5532.jpg

When fitted, you can see the overhang here and compare it to the earlier picture...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/DJB_5534.jpg

And lastly, looking from the same angle as the first rusty shot...

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...e/DJB_5533.jpg


So - job done!

Reassembly, is as they say, a reversal of removal... and you dont need pictures for that!

Hope that helps someone out....

David

excellent writeup as always bestie! One q- did you break the cable retainer where the cable barrel nub sits as it looks broken in the 2nd pic of the rusty bar side views?

Well spotted!

Yes, I did - it was only the very small "tang" that attempts to retain the cable.

It was easily held with a very thin cable tie however on re-assembly!

David

Again, thanks for this guide! I have followed the procedure, and it's easy enough (especially with all these pictures ;)).
The only thing I found quite difficult, was how to take all these plastic covers without breaking their "catches" or whatever you call it... Managed to do it, but it's quite tricky ;)

One additional tip for "dummies" (from another dummy :D) - when you took off the release cable, and you need to go to the shed for another spanner/tool/whatever, don't close the tailgate :D:D:D

This doesn't affect me but just wanted to say thanks for doing it.

Thanks for saying thanks guys - its nice to see these are appreciated - they do take a wee while to write up....and the wife and neighbours wonder what is going on...then roll their eyes....:lightbulb:

The "dont close the tailgate" comment made me smile... that nearly caught me too!

David

Great instructions. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
An annoying problem that I look forward to fix.

Cheers

Thanks, David. Out of curiosity, I assume that the parking assist camera would present another obstacle. I haven't even taken delivery of the car, much less had any sticky tailgate problems, but was just wondering. Thanks in advance.

hi i just found the 4mm 304 grade stainless steel rod on eBay Item number: 160508359661 all in £5 i will do my one of Xmas

Ebay item 150531478574 is a 250mm length of 4mm 304 SS rod... Enough to do the job twice... £3 all in...

Miti

Hi - yes, but I am sure there is a connector for the OEM camera at the tailgate so easy to unplug...

Great to see the other guys getting stuck in... such an annoying problem and and easy fix...

David

Just wanted to say thanks for the write up. Very helpful.

Attempted this job today and it went quite well until I tried to punch out the pin. It was as it had expanded with all the rust. I was unable to budge it with out risking damaging the surroundings. Settled with freeing it up as best I could and spraying it with various rust removing and rust inhibiting chemicals. Had a bit of a trouble with the rubber seal around the handle unit. Would have been nice to have a replacement seal.

Cheers

Hi

The pin was tight on mine - I applied loads of WD40 and left it for 10mins, then held the unit vertically on top of the vice and then drove the pin out with a drift.

It was tight - from as you say the swelling of the rust - but it did come out with no damage.

Given that you have had it in bits already, another go when its warmer will take you half the time!

David

Would a moderator kindly make this a sticky please?

Sticky Tailgate Lever / Lock
 

Finally got around to doing this job..........

First & foremost, big, big thank you to Best Gear. Truly spot-on instructions and great photos.

Ordered the stainless steel rod from eBay as per instructions. £1.50 for item and £1.50 postage. Arrived this morning. No probs.

The job was quite straightforward for the most part and would have taken me 60-90mins except for one hiccup......

Of the four nuts which hold the rear lamp & handle assembly in place, one of them (the last one,would you believe it) had been cross threaded and wouldn't budge. Tried all the usual stuff such as WD40 but to no avail. The nut and the bolt were just spinning around together because the base of the bolt had worked free of its plastic moulding in the housing.

Anyway, finally managed to get the assembly free of the tailgate, punched the corroded pin out, cleaned it all up (including the spring) and reassembled with the shiny new stainless steel 304 grade pin. Lashings of white lithium grease on the spring for good measure.

Result - as good as new!

Couple of points worth noting:

• I removed the three bolts which hold the rear wiper motor in place as it made access to the two centre nuts much easier;
• I found the removal of the trim around the inside of the rear tailgate relatively easy with none of the poppers breaking and no near misses;
• Removing the cable from the lock mechansim was easier if you slacken the cable by wiggling the handle at the same time. It wasn't too difficult;
• You need torx screwdriver for some of the screws. I think they were size 25 (or maybe 20, can't be sure now), and
• The little shroud around the cable pivot holder thingy - don't forget to get this reassembled BEFORE remounting and securing the handle/ lamp holder into the tailgate. I didn't and needed to take the thing off again as it's too fiddly to do it after the unit has been refitted into the bodywork.

So, once again - thanks guys. Much appreciated. Arianne.

Just had a look at my MY 2005 car, the bar is really badly corroded. I can see this job going on the list soon! Thanks for the excellent write up.

My 2008 model XC90 is just coming to the end of the 3 year warranty period,
and just last week the tailgate handle started to stick.

Had a quick look up undernath and confirmed that the pivot pin ( or whatever it is called ) was all rusty and obviously the casue of the mechanism sticking,
so booked it in with the official Volvo dealer and explained about this known fault, stating that I expected the mechanism to be replaced under warranty.

Got the car back the next day and all they have done is "cleaned and lubricated" the part, which has freed it up.
( Looking up underneath - the visible part of the pin still looks the same {rusty} so I suspect it has simply been treated to a helping of WD40 or similar ).

I questioned this asking how long their "repair" would be warranted for,
and they explained it would only be warranted to the end of the manufacturers warranty - i.e. a few days !

Not at all happy with this answer I asked why the mechanism had not been replaced and was told that Volvo
would not authorise replacement as the part had not "failed", it just needed lubricating.

The chap did say that if it was a piece of visible external trim, or body panel, or even a wheel that was corroded,
they would replace it - which I found strange because a bit of corrosion on an allow wheel
doesn't stop the wheel from turning, whereas the corrosion on my pivot had stopped the thing from working !

Of course anyone with half an ounce of common sense or the tiniest bit of engineering knowledge will know
that a rusty part "cleaned and lubricated" will soon go rusty again, so to my mind this is not a repair,
just a temporary measure to get me "back on the road", and allow my warranty to expire,
after which I will have to pay for the next "clean & lubricate" or buy a new mechanism myself, or do the stainless steel pin replacement myself :-(

I have raised the issue with Volvo Customer Services, but in the meantime....
has anyone had one of these tailgate handle / locks replaced under warranty due to rusting of the pivot pin,
and does anyone know if there has been a modification to prevent it happening in the future ?

Thanks,

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...1/Coconut1.jpg

"Rusty the XC90"
 

Mine has been 'sticking' for some time, never thought much of it (just another quirk of the car?) after reading this thread I have found that mine is really rusty under there!

1) I have well lubricated the part in WD40 equivalent from outside, lots of rusty fluid leaked back!

2) Will order parts and replace pin myself in near future.

3) Big Thanks

I would remind them that the cause of it sticking is down to the poor quality of the zinc passivation that was applied to the part.... its not a standard part requiring lubrication.

If it were, it would be listed in the service schedule.

"not fit for purpose" would spring to mind with that component....

David

The V70 and XC70 have a tight fitting cover inside the taigate handle that protects the mechanism. Try and look at the pin on one of those cars and you won't be able to see it. Should have been fitted to the XC90 as well!

Dont suppose it does fit the xc90 too, does it?!?!

I've wondered that myself.

Top Marks to Volvo Customer Services
 

OK,

The car went to the Volvo dealer ( while under warranty ) because the tailgate handle was sticking,
and the tailgate could not be opened easily.

Dealer "cleaned and lubricated" the assembly and returned it to me "working"
stating that the part had not failed so Volvo would not replace it.

I disputed this on the grounds that that the part had a material defect -
namely the manufacturing process used to prevent corrosion ( zinc passivation ) had failed
during the warranty period, and argued that the part should be replaced under warranty.

After sending a photograph ( attached ) to Volvo Customers of the visible part of the tailgate handle pivot pin,
AFTER it had been "cleaned and lubricated" by the dealer, Volvo Customer services have agreed to replace it without charge,
although "without prejudice" and the caveat that this is a gesture of goodwill.
They do not admit that the part actually needs changing !

So it looks like I have another 2 - 3 years before I need to do the stainless steel rod modification myself :-)

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...1/Coconut1.jpg

Spray some Dinitrol in there. That's what I've done with mine.

I think Volvo should fit a stainless pin or the version with the cover to new Volvos. It's not a very durable design as it is.

Just joined the forum, saw this, doing the repair on Saturday - cheers!

I wonder if you could have the dealer do the work under warranty and replace the defective Volvo part with a proper stainless steel bar that you supply? Might give them a call. I can imagine the answer, but its worth a shot.

I have asked that this thread be placed in the Articles section. I have requested this before for David's posts, sometimes it happens, sometimes not.

I think David's posts are invaluable and it would be nice to have them all in one place. Does anyone else agree?

Thanks David (BestGear)

Jim.

I agree and have previously asked but it just never happens...

I asked for various good and often referred to articles to get moved too....

Did repair following your guide, however I found that the spring was also snapped on one side. Phoned Volvo today and was informed that this was not a seperate part and quoted £92 for full handle assembley!!
Anyone got any ideas!!

Thanks

HI

Not sure then, other than checking out these boxes of spring assortments that you see around..places like Screwfix.

I guess the rot killed the spring as well as attacking the shaft.

David

Should be plenty in the breakers. They are fitted to the V70, the XC70, as well as the XC90.

Anyone got a photo of the spring that could be posted up ?

Maybe someone checking this Thread might have one,
or knows where to get a suitable replacement ?

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...1/Coconut1.jpg

Anyone fitted an XC70, V70, handle with it's built in protective cover to the XC90?

decided to do this repair today, what a disaster!
the spring snapped
the latch which holds the barrel from the cable snapped
and alot of plastic tabs on the handle assembley were already snapped.
dealer just quoted me £92 for a new assembly.

ive had to put it back together for the night but when i pull the cable boot wont open any more any ideas how i can open the boot to carry on with the repair?

My handle starts to stick now, so am afraid I will need to go through this soon :(

£92 later and lots of faffing about the tailgate handle now is working and with 12 months warranty.

anyone else that gets stuck in a similar situation. (aka stuck in the boot of the car) you have to push the boot cable not pull it

I cannot attempt this repair at the moment, as I'm only 5 weeks into recovering from a fractured shoulder (and surgery), so went for the easy option with a can of WD40. Fingers crossed, it seems to have done the trick for now!!

i would stick to the wd40 unless u want to pay for the replacement part.
mine was in such a rusty state.
i did get some 4mm steel from B&Q for about £1.50 the worst part is getting the old pin out. Doing this on a cold day didnt help as all the plastics were brittle

Was a worth while repair as the numberplate lights were all battered and falling out. now ive got a upgraded version and the bulbs are more white than yellow which looks good. and the handle works perfectly.

Spring repair
 

Yesterday decided to sort the handle, after finding spring snapped other month. Round bar 4mm B&Q £1.98, took old spring and bent into what I thought looked like it's proper shape. Got lucky first time, the arms (as seen in photo) are parrallel to each other. All put back together, now sorted.