0W30 or 5W30
 

Hi all I'm after a bit of advice my car a 2009 V50
D5 auto with 93K I'm thinking about using a 5W30
in it. It's the correct A5/B5 spec Castrol Magnatec.
Any views on changing from the 0W30 that's in it
As I feel at the mileage maybe the 5W30 may be
beneficial.



Cheers Colin.

dont know about the particular oil, but 0w30 isnt going to be much thinner than 5w30. Nothing has a vicosity of 0. IF your car is burning a lot of oil you might be better to go to a 5w40. At 90,000 ish should be almost as good as new.

Take a low ash 5w40 , your dpf will be ashloading much faster with a ashrich oil consuming fast

0w/30 is the grade specified by volvo and certainly not magnatec , it's Edge .. .

If you want to eat up your valvelifters certainly use 0w30 dilluted with fuel ;-)

But Magnatec like Edge is A5/B5 spec or am I missing something?

Unfortunately no one on here is an oil scientist , we have to use what volvo and their oil partners recommend after spending £ millions on development , no one know better than them ...

Well ,,,,,,,

Well im an oilscientist how about that :)
And your statements about volvo are laughable , not all choices are made for durability but also for emissions and profit or branding alliances

My experiences with them are mediocre at best , ok not dealing with R&D but with puppets down under but it aint pretty
Those millions your talking about are not for R&D but for setting up cartels with (over)expensive tests to get a very expensive sticker to keep smaller competition out
Most of the oilknowledge is already discovered and engineered

Amazing ! well maybe you could answer that question .. also your thoughts about the 0w/20 with volvos own specification for all the new VEA engines ?

These new 4-cylinder Drive-E engines have the recommended Castrol Edge Professional SAE 0W-20 to specification VCC RBSO-2AE fully synthetic engine oil.
This engine oil is specially developed by Castrol for the new Volvo engines in order to fulfil the requirements for the engine’s service intervals – all engines are filled with specially adapted synthetic engine oil at the factory. The choice of oil has been made very carefully with regards to service life, starting characteristics, fuel consumption and environmental impact.
An approved engine oil must be used in order that Volvo recommended service intervals can be applied. Only use a prescribed grade of oil for both filling and oil change, otherwise you will risk affecting the service life of the engine.

Engine oil recommendations are now based on making sure that the engine is as economic as possible AND does not fail within the main warranty period too often.
Design spec for most petrol engines is 0 or 5w30 (No effective difference unless you live at the Poles) and is 0 or 5w40 for a diesel.
Some new hybrid petrol engines are OK on 0 or 5w20 oils.

Those design specs are for engines in good condition that do not suffer from fuel contamination.
I think using an 0w30 in a high mileage diesel is OK in winter but a silly idea in summer.
0 or 5w40 is the way to go!
If you suffer from fuel contamination of the oil, cut the oil change interval in half or use an oil additive like Ceratec.

@Clan

Your a good helpful lad with tons of experience regarding repairing volvoś , but are a bit too submissive regarding volvo regulations and always chanting on the knees for their altar
Now were i come from ,regulations are good but good critical thinking is better when circumstances are changing


Im not a fan of those wateroils, only if they are used in artic conditions with a lot of start and stops .
Volvo (and others) are using these wateroils to squeeze out every bit of emissions that they can get to meet regulations on paper , and thats also money if they can sell their cars that way
Engines are wearing quicker with those oils than thicker synthetic ones ,oil analysis proves this .
The unwary car customer wont notice since "servicelife" means a few years of warranty not 20 years of usage outside warranty .
Most people who come here on this forum have old cars outside warranty , and are better suited with good practicle advise when the engine starts using oil outside warranty

Now the pre dpf d5ś where using 5w40 synthetic how come?
Why did they change that into 0w30 with dpf? (same cilinders same pistons same clearences)
Odd aint it? Ill tel you why: emissions and dpf ashloading that doesnt mean that 0w30 oil is better for the outside warranty 10 year old car customer .
If you add in the extra fueldillution with dpf operation in the already thin 0w30 than im not suprised that a lot of those d5ś have valvelifter problems that pre dpf d5ś with undilluted 5w40 dont have
You do the math
Also the scam that only castrol can be used is moblike other brands that meet good wear and ash specs are just as good (or better)

The ashdifferences in 5w40 and 0w30 arent that much anyway and if you factor in less evaporation with 5w40 and less blowby then fewer oil will be burned that produces ash anyway.
Now even if the dpf gets plugged eventually (outside warranty remember :)) than your holy volvo tries to sell their customers new dpfś for big money instead of recycle them by cleaning them with burning and reverse pressurized air like the trucking industry does

Thats odd behaviour for a company who claims to be sustainible to throw good dpfś away to sell their customers new ones

The crap ive withnessed first and secondhand with those companies are outragious
Axelping for instance : easily fixed with a xc90 bolt with a rubber ring, volvo refuses it because the bolt is only for xc90! yeah it fits perfect on other models , they are trying not working crap with locktite and disassemble axles for big money

The list goes on and on and on and not only with volvo also other brands operate this way
Fixing very old cars with bills more than their value , while cheaper commonsense options where availible, but dependend non technical customers are talked into it and gotten to the cleaners
Those talking suits with toothpaste smiles on their granit floors disgust me

So with all that said.............what should I be using in my high mileage (350,000kms) 2009 D5 ????

Low ash synthetic 5w40

Cheers.

0w/30 A5/B5 ... :-) High mileage should make no difference , you wont find any wear if you were to strip the engine ... ( been there done that, measured this that and the other )

volvo have never recommended 5w/40

on the pre 2005 models with 12000 mile service intervals it was 5w/30 and on volvos oil chart is does say do not use 5w/40 for what ever reason .

the 0w/30 came along with the change to 18000 service intervals ...long life oil .

They did (see below) but even if they didnt its still ok to use a better wearresistant oil with common sense
Also the valvelifters will be thankfull ;-)


Well there are differences between manuals in countries
But lets say we take a pre 2005 manual

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/webmanu..._EN_tp6678.pdf

On page 156 we get the recommendation to use a acea b4 spec oil on DIESEL engines


You do know that the wateroils dont/cant meet this wearspec? and almost all synthetic and even some semisynthetic 5w40 do meet this spec? 5w40 isn excluded its almost mandatory to meet this b4 spec

Why is that? and why is this changed to a lesser wearspec after 2005? the answer i gave 2 posts earlier

Also the argumentation that 0w30 is longlife makes it even worse, the polymers that are used to make the 30 part after the W are being chopped up by mechanical stresses during (longer)usage and will lessen the viscosity even more on high temps, there are also plenty longlife 5w40 oils

Replaced any valvelifters post 2005 d5? ;)

So going back to my original point at the start of this thread!

I don't do 18k miles between oil changes I do around 8/9 K
also I live in Cumbria which whilst wet isn't the coldest place to
live.


Is the oil I asked about 5w30 Magnatec that has the all important
according to lots of people A5/B5 spec i.e. what Volvo specify okay
to use?



Best Colin.

That's what my local volvo parts dept have been giving me to use in my 2009 D5

Why does it need to be Castrol as some have stated when some Volvo main dealers don't use it?
They do use the correct spec be it Shell /Mobile etc.
If you think about it some dealers are multi franchise and they would need a few different manufacturers to cater for the different models that they sell.
I personally use Comma oil in my vehicles which some people might frown on but never had any issues.

no not at all, and no recollection of it being a known problem with volvos of that age . but then most of the ones i see are serviced using volvos recommended 0w/30 .

Probably to expensive to let the volvo dealer take care of replacing them there would be more than the cars value
Here and on other forums the post 2005 d5 are masivly complaining and replacing noisy valvelifters

I use 5w30 a5b5 mobile from halfords at about 35e for 5 litres. seems the best alround value to be had here... filter from maindealer for about 13 e.

There is no need to use an HM oil unless the engine leaks oil and the repair is not an economic one, or the oil consumption starts to increase (Check the CCV is working first).

Most high mileage oils are no good for diesels with a DPF, so you might want to consider just moving up one grade and using half a can of Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver to swell the seals back into action.

It's also worth checking the 0w40 oils if you need a low ash one AND use the oil finder guide of the web site to check which oil is supposed to be the correct one.

The more I look into this the more it makes no sense " You've got to use Castrol Edge 0w30 that's what Volvo recommend" It didn't exist in 2009.. And looking at a well known parts supplier of genuine volvo parts. There quote Edge 0w30 being for post 2010 volvo's and Magnatec 5w30 also being suitable?



Colin.

Castrol is the OEM oil for Volvo at present and they do change their recommended or approved oil when they develop new oils OR R&D indicates the previous oil was not the best one. They have even reduced the oil change interval in a few cases.

For example OEM for my diesel was Magnetec 10w40, then about 5 years ago it was changed to Edge 5w40 and finally about a year ago they changed it to the new Edge 0w40 (All of the oils were Acea A3/B4).

The OEM OCI was 20K km, but was cut to 15K km BUT only in the UK, as that was done to allow the UK Volvo dealers to use Magnetec 10w40 which is much cheaper than Edge 0w40, but does not last quite as long.

If you have a newer Volvo that is supposed to use Edge 0w30, do not use anything but that oil if you want to stick to the OEM viscosity groups, cos SAE figures are groups and that oil is right at the top of the 30 range, so it's a thick 30. If you want to go thick, move up to a full synthetic 0w40.

I'm surprised to hear UK Volvo dealers are using oils that are not approved of by Volvo.
Top of the range engine oil companies like Mobil, Shell and Liqui Moly all make oils that are recommended for various Volvo cars, BUT USE THEIR OIL FINDER GUIDE PAGES to check which one is the best.
Mobil 1 oils are good and contain a lot of detergent additives, so they clean well BUT cause slightly more wear.
Shell Ultra is the best oil for the money as it has a GTL (Gas To Liquids) base in addition to good additives.
Liqui Moly Synthoils are the best in technical terms, BUT rather expensive and you won't know the difference between UOA results with Ultra.

There is no way I would use a non major brand oil like Comma regardless of how good their web site is or what is written on the cans. Acea specs are done by self certification, so no one checks the actual performance!

Look up there history and who there owner used to be and there web site does not interest me one bit..
Like I said I have never had a problem with there products that I have been using for years in various vehicles.
The oils that I use are not cheap either.
But every ones entitled to there opinion!!

I used Comma oils for a couple of hundred thousand Kms in my last car without problem, that car has 650,000kms on it now and is still running.

And I agree, it's not particularly cheap. (but is cheaper than the premium rip off merchants)

On another note a question for the oil man :-)

GL4 and GL5 hypoid oils , and the myth about syncro cones disolving in Transaxles with hypoid final drives , Truth or old wives Tale ? I've heard the stories but my experience doesn't bear them out .

How many miles or kms an engine has done, does not make much of a difference in engine wear terms, the total number of stop starts and age of the engine are more important with a diesel.

When trying to figure out the condition of an engine, oil consumption is one of the best guides.

I thought Comma were as cheap as the Halfrauds oils and there is an old saying that is very true, "You get what you pay for", although shopping around for a good deal does help.

If you do plan to use supermarket quality oils, Meguin and Foouchs are cheap. MG is owned by Liqui Moly and FU are the major share holder in Liqui Moly. Some cheap Dino based oils like GTX 10w40 can produce good results in UOA terms, BUT only for about 5K miles, after that they thin out due to high temp shearing AND run out of active detergents.

Even now, the Skoda in question only takes about a Litre towards the end of it's 15,000km service schedule.
And you have to admit.......650,000kms is impressive!!!!

Im not that into diffoils , mostly engine and hydraulic oil
I know the tales but the amount of chemicals in them can not dissolve whole cones even if they want to ;)
The naked eye cant see very slight wear (oil analysis is more accurate)

The main thing about Diff or transmission oils is using the correct one in GL cat terms AND changing it twice as often as the Volvo Gods say.
Volvo dealership or Liqui Moly oil finder listed only as regards the transmission system.

The yellow metals story relates to some old manual gearboxes that need a GL3 OR GL 3 plus (Good for 3 and 4 groups) oils. It's a very long term issue and most of the flack was directed at Castrol Synthrax for listing GL 5 oils in their oil finder.

Marine grade bronze (It's a yellow metal like brass) was used in the good old days for a few bushes and even low speed shell bearings. It's real tough, does not corrode like brass or fatigue crack like stainless, BUT there are some oil additives that it reacts with. It will not react with Liqui Moly gearbox oil additives (They do a stop leak and one anti wear Moly additive).

Ive got a gallon of GL5 gear oil at back of garage, years old, brand unknown.
Should I store it for ever, use it in a GL4 diff, or take to the tip ?

Hi

I don't seem to be getting forum notifications on here any more, I just came on to try to find out something for my D5.

The GL4/GL5 thing that seems to be getting more and more well known is based on out of date information. Back in the 1970s, when GL5 oils were first introduced, it was very quickly realised that the additives attacked yellow metals. That was no good to the oil manufacturer or user, so the additive pack was soon changed (by reputable oil companies) so that they use the same additives as in a GL4 oil, but in a higher concentration. That means that GL5 oils from reputable companies will not attack brass synchros. I don't know if that is the case with oils from companies that we don't deal with though.

There are certain GL5 oils that are better as diff oils as they are too slippery for synchros, but they are not attacking the brass.

Cheers

Tim

Ok so my 2009 v70 2.4d is due for a service, 104k miles, what oil should I be using, 5w30/ 0w40/ 5w40 etc? Castrol or shell helix/ultra? Are they all roughly the same or not? We don't get freezing temperatures anymore. I've used Mobil 1 for years but I'm thinking shell is the way forward?
Soooo confusing