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What's the P80 850 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Std. Faults
What are the P80 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Common Faults
The aim is for the collective to create a single thread that signposts these. NOT to be a highjacking thread on how to sort the various issue, but a collection of links to the solutions. These cars are known to be good for galactic miles with the caveat that a few items are kept on top of. I'm with RobertDIY of Youtube fame for being a great proponant of this. The things don't rot, unlike Mercs etc of a similar vintage even the W124 supposedly made of granite is rot-box by comparison. Watch a few key points, the P80 V70 S70 C70 Killers don't seem to get near us for 300,000+ miles. Few cars can do this before becoming uneconomic to run, in my experience not a P80 becuase parts are cheap and plentiful. Doa ll you can to list what you understand to be the things these cars need doing to them to get to 300,000+ REPEAT DO NOT ENTER INTO HOW To Sort the issue or it'll bog down. I'll kick off: 1) The Heater core. A Known issue. These leak causing head gasket failure and to the breakers piel they go. A £30 part kills many a P80 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lKq7c5I5GU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdKzDfvOoQA 2) Overheating Auto Transmissions: My hobby horse. Manuals are pretty much bullet-proof, and so are autos if you flush or fit a cooler. Google Gibbons Flush, you'll find all you need ot know. If not most won't get to high miles. I have £50 that says your ATF is black. Damage is being done. Not an issue if you don't drive the thing, but for the rest of us... http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=259661 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-ME5_JcJ7g http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=235190 http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/2926-ma...9992000-r-awd/ 3) ETM Late 1998/99 only. This subject ahs been done to death. You want a Sacer ETM module. Contactless, don't bohter with any Magneto Marelli whatever they tell you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCNvsag0dig Information only. With links if you can. Can somebody do the ABS module, door-stay, suspension bushes, etc etc. Who's next`/... |
4) PCV:
This one also short and sweet. PCV puts many cars in the crusher. The factory fit system is undersized after cars get outside warranty mileages and clogs. Crankcase pressure builds, blows seals and the job to repalce these cheap as chips seals is so involved (likley the transmission is coming out) to be non-viable. Cars at 120,000+ burn oil or still have less than ideal pressures with factory repalcements. There's many ways to do this. Worst way is to fit more of the same parts that caused the issue in the first. Particualry as the engine is now getting tired, so needs an PCV upgrade. Numerous threads but this one is top of the tree https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=53448 Until i did the mod. shown in this link, mine still burnt oil. £100 odd for a few bits of hose that kills these cars? - don't buy it, factory kit is overpriced junk, amounting to a few tubes. Works fine for the first 100,000. Hose is Hose. If you drive the thing, ie 150,000+ do it for less and do it better following the link above. Then stick to fully synth oil. Saves a fortune in oil too. Note: Race cars have pumps to reduce crankcase pressure for a reason, can't recommend thsi mod highly enough. How to check yours: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIRoc0VxLd4: |
Kind of linked to the PCV avove, rear crank seal sees a few off as it's a gearbox out job to change a £5 seal.
Seems to effect earlier cars more, or perhaps they're more neglected now. Blocked PCV puts extra strain on all the seals and unfortunately one of the first to go is the hardest to change. |
Would also suggest rear delta-link bushes, as they're a ball ache to change so the cost is often uneconomical.
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Burn the old one out with a blowlamp and drift the new one in with a copper mallet. |
If not done already then I think the following (in addition to what's already been said) will need doing to get to 300k miles:
They do rot, but only in 2 places (that I know of): the rear exhaust hanger and the fuel filter bracket. Headlight reflectors go dull & the silvering WILL come off when you try to polish it. The steering racks aren't brilliant, particularly the later SMI rack where a bracket breaks and has to be welded. Inner track rods will develop play but are easily replaced. Engine mounts (lower front, lower rear (PITA on a turbo car), side (under cambelt), gearbox mount and top mounts will need doing. Fuel pump relay. Heated front seats - was subject to a recall, make sure it's been done. Headlight switch - again was subject to a recall, make sure it's been done. Aux belt - the change interval is less than the cambelt. Leave it too long and it will snap, wrap round the cambelt and wreck the engine. Radiator (particularly auto's and manuals up to 99 that have oil coolers). They can break causing oil to mix with coolant which may show the signs of head gasket failure with engine oil or wreck an autobox. Rear shock upper mounts - replace with the nivomat mounts which are a lot stronger. ABS ecu - solder joints fail causing various spurious fault codes. Obviously other normal service stuff will need doing as well. |
Steering racks for sure. Have to partially drop the suvframe, which eats up labour and there is a big problem with supply of good recon units. Most folks report almost instant leaks on them, then have to go through hassle of swapping then out again....
On the diesels a killer part is the maf sensor on the 1994/1998 cars, it's been discontinued for nearly 10 years and the supply has dried up through volvo, vw/vag and other UK routes I know of, no one in UK can refurbished them and supply from Europe is not exactly that much healthier. Car will run fine on one until it's almost totally gone, then you get problems. These cars can also develop rot on the rear frame rails where the boot floor is attached, not at all hard to fix, very easy to cut out and weld in new material though never seen one actuality go through, normally just a clean and underseal before its 20th birthday will suffice. Abs ecu for sure. These p80 cars areview often seen as the last real volvo, even though the rwd boys will say the 9xx/v90 cars were, and really really can last well over 20 years /300k so long as you take care of the minors before they become majors. I'm already seeing 2010/2012 vauxhall and fords in the scrap yards as uneconomic mot failures, crazy! |
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Proper stuff from acshortt5 & Brickman. Tight, concise, informative. Well done. I can see it already, this will be a spanker of thread.
I for one did not think to look at my Aux / Serpentine belt. Already I can confrim, found mine in worse condition than my cambelt. Jeeezz. Golden [acshortt5 ] Thank you. Door Stays Check strap wear Usually it's the driver's door side that goes first. You get a popping noise as the door pings under the strain. A worn door stay will flex the door and eventually metal fatigue sets in and b*gg*rs the door pillar near the strap/stay. Catch it quick and it's a £20 for a new check-strap on eBlag and five minutes with a 10mm socket. Leave the door double 'popping' and clunking for too long and you'll need to weld it up, a hassle and soemthing you are forced to do to stop the door swinging, this wrecks the rust-proofing and the door pillar starts to rot. The welding means the heat has the door pillar lose it's ductility, goes brittle, so the weld breaks under the strain, and downhill from there. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...k-strap-repair http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=58287 Battery Hold-down Clamp Numerous P80 cars lose these. Subsequent owners don't know they've got them missing. These clip / roll-over the end of your battery tray. Missing, battery looks (kind of) secure. Eventually the battery comes out of the tray and on the next RH bend, slides into the top transmission cooler lines (on autos) pushing the hose/ line off. ATF pumps everywhere but back into the box, box is trashed. Not many will put another box in a 20 year old car, car goes to the crusher for a peice of plastic sourced on eBlag for a fiver. Be sure you have yours. |
Driver's Door Window Cluster
Always playing-up. Go to the breakers and you'll struggle to find a car with one still in it.. These are pricey new and cleaning (Use Deoxit) helps but the real fix is a new cluster. Only these are £120 in RHD form, and they'll still go again. But... on eBay LHD drive pattern versions are sold by the Chinese - better made, with more spark-suppression and come in at £20 delivered. At that price, they've become throwaway. Only they won't work in a RHD car, but can be cobbled in - with a bit of prodding. Here's my hack: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=262138 |
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Roof Bars / Roof Rack
Yes I know, not strictly a fault and certainly not a killer, but the purpose-made banana-shape integral bars that were seen on the XC. (lovely low-profile things they is) are hardly visble and make no wind howling like those lash-ups by Thule et al. The square section things are so noisy. Noise aside, if you're putting bike racks on top of the square things, it looks like a madman-scaffolder was let loose on your roof. Nope, all else equal, these bars is 'wot u gets'. Pix below: 'spose it depends on how you like your filth... |
Auto gear lever Button
Already a sticky on here. I'll mention nonetheless. 20 year old plastic goes brittle. The auto shift release button goes the same way. A cheap enough fix: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=223015 V70 Estate Back door trim panel These fall off or rattle. There's repair kit to fix-up brittle retaining lugs and push fit connectors, but I'm afraid I can't keep the faith. I am but a fallen soul. These kits fail too. Just shove 4 x long self-tappers thru' the whole shebang and have done. |
Running your MP3 / Handfree thru' your existing head unit
You can do this via GROM AUX-3 or Yatour interfaces, but these things are after-thoughts, cost more than they're worth, and don't work half as well as doiing it properly. ie putting your own input into the back. If you can use a soldering iron or even if you're a bit ham-fisted in this department, this is simple and the way to go, even if the GROM AUX-3 or Yatour interfaces were free. Find the various hacks for the stock head units listed. I can vouch personally for the SC805 hack but ones for the HU/ SC 901 800/801 etc etc are all found with the Google Poodle. You don't lose your CD mutli-changer either, it looks stock, Barrification avoided. Cheap too. But as i said, even if the GROM AUX-3 or Yatour lash-up interfaces were free and I'm not saying they don't work because they do, but if this simple hack cost what they do, the hack would still be the way to go. Fitted with the optional amps available, (on ebay daily for £35-40) and with these systems being pretty much hte best you could get back in the day, they fair very well against all but the very best, even today. So unless you've hearing akin to a fruit bat, or an extreme hi-fi buff, they do fine. |
Not really a car killer but.....
Interior plastic trim - on cars of this age everything you touch either seems to lose tabs or screw holes or actually break unless you are very careful/lucky. I can imagine many cars have been consigned to the scrap heap because of loose/rattling/missing trim. I now try to leave removing internal trim for warmer weather when the plastics don't seem so fragile. Two part superglue for plastics as well as Gorilla glue gaffer tape are my personal favourite, with epoxy putty to rebuild damaged screw holes. On a related issue the scrappers near me have stopped keeping mk1 volvos since 'there is no demand anymore' which, if its 'par for the course' throughout the country, is something that will certainly affect their long term economic viability. Cheers for a good thread. John |
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Yes, a good point, a warm day is best if working on the dash, one large brittle lump of plastic. Thanks for the thanks... (under his breathe) says... how long will it be beofre its railroaded off at a tangent by one of the knuckle-draggers...
You makes a good point guv'. Hence: Hard to get parts Some parts, if available are so damned pricey, you'd think we were driving Mercs. Nivomats spring to mind. Mercedes have made it a deliberate policy to price 10+ YO cars to the crusher with parts prices. Fortunately aside from Nivomats et al we can still go to the breakers' yards, but you're right, you can no longer bank on one being there. Brake linings will never be an issue, you'll get brake parts for almost any car ever made, however I'm starting to hoard the more obscure parts. (Bifuel parts is my thing) To get to 300,000 some of you might need to do the same. Bifuel LPG/ CNG Necam Stepper Motors Keep these lubricated with GT85, not WD40 or cry in your beer. Keep the dizzy clean. Ignore this and you'll likely be speaking to me for a another. Last year you couldn't buy this part at any price. This part unique to Volvo with unique to Volvo price. Necam made a small batch recently, but this part has to be made obsolete soon. I bang on about this here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=183 Larger 302mm Front discs Upgrade These got put on go-faster models like the T & R models. Plod had them specc'd on motorway patrol vehicles. A mod over and above a fault but a worthwhile one, not just for boy-racers. Gives a marked improvement to brakes, quick, easy and cheap to do. Strictly speaking, requires Perfo rims, but with so much meat on those calipers (I've cut one open) what this guy advocates whilst looking very slapdash, nay dangerous I see no issue with. He uses the easier to get Colomba rims. Of course, use Perfos if you can get them. For a while, the caliper carrier required for this mod was hard to get. I believe now back in production. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...olumba+caliper I'll add more later. Keep 'em coming gents... |
Some more common faults for you:
MAF sensor - if it fails you probably can't start the car and it will be chucking black smoke (unburnt fuel) out the exhaust. Unplugging it will default the ecu to a set table of fueling and let the car run to get you home. Cam position sensor. If you are replacing this then also budget for the cam seal which is probably leaking and the cause of the failed sensor. Volvo also do uprated (higher tensile) bolts (2 x bolts) for this now so get those as well. Thermostat bolts - the originals are prone to snapping & volvo now do higher tensile ones. Coolant temperature sensor - Can lead to non/difficult starting and poor mpg. Get a volvo one for this, an aftermarket one gave faulty readings and was a poor (leccy connector) fit. They changed the sensor several times during the P80 cars run so take care when ordering - volvo is safest for this. Immobilizer anntenna ring - can fail leading to the car cutting out after starting. You can try and clean the contacts but a new one is only circa £35 and 10 minutes to swap. Ignition switch - when it fails it can cause warning lights to appear on the dash and speedo/rev counter to not work. If you turn the key slightly back and forth and the lights go out/things alter then that is the issue. About £40 from volvo and fairly easy to change. Keep the receipt though as a replacement failed on me after a week! Aux power - the little connector (with 4 red wires bunched together) on the top of the positive (+ve) lead on the battery. If this comes loose you can have the engine cut out randomly (every time you go over a bump basically) and was a sod to try and fault find as I checked everything else before getting there and no fault codes were stored. Check the contact surface is clean and the nut tightened. Autobox PNP switch - When this stops working properly common things are your reverse lights don't work without pushing/pulling the selector. Can lead to non starting in N (neutral) or not at all. It's a fair bit of work to get in there, repair kits are available to replace the contacts but personally I had volvo sort it with a volvo part. |
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Thank you acshortt5. Didn't know about most of those, and forgotten about the others. Thank you.
V70 / 850 Estate Rear Roller Load cover Blind aka parcel shelf These cars have a roller-blind to cover, in Volvo-speak the 'cargo' area. By misuse, letting go and watching them smash-up, (and old brittle plastics), or putting stuff on top, these fail to retract to store. Various kits are available but frankly, save your money, judicious use of a few cable ties to hold the roller ends together has fixed mine. Not usually necessary anyway, Kit shown here: |
Not a "fault" as such but brake judder after replacing rear discs.
This happened to me and it took a lot of searching before I found the solution. When replacing rear discs you can experience a really violent judder which comes through the car and braking power is reduced. In my case the judder was not apparent immediately but definately made itself known! The solution is to fit a volvo shim kit. It's a kit of 4 metal shims which fit between the caliper piston and brake pad and they are specially shaped (only fit one way). They are reuseable to if you do this job and don't already have them I suggest buying them and if you have got them don't forget to swap them onto the new pads. |
You've reminded me of another. That shim/anti-squeal kit is included in factory and Mintex kits. A Teflon shim. Pattern pads don't work as well.
Front Pads: - PATTERN MANUFACTURERS USUALLY ONLY SELL ONE TYPE OF PAD WHEN THERE WILL BE THREE Factory pads are high-powder, whereas many pattern pads are sold as low-powder, actually something that is sold as a virtue! And sucked-up as such. [Often the reason for f&3kw$t boy-racer warped-discs threads, it'll be a pad issue]. Mintex are on eBay and come about 60% dearer but work and make powder like factory sets and bed down well. NOTE: There are three pad types for the front and if you remember your school-boy physics you'll realise why. If you've just plonked on the first set you or your parts seller could see, REMEMBER: PATTERN MANUFACTURERS USUALLY ONLY SELL ONE TYPE. Clearly the 'Laws of Physics' do not apply to them. And if you've been to school and you still don't know why there's three, clearly the state has frittered money educating you. Because you would certainly have been taught this. Please for all our sakes, leave your brakes alone. Fortunately, the people at Mintex were not donkeys in school. http://www.mintex.brakebook.com MDB1614 15” MDB1984 16” 302mm MDB2676 17” MDB2129 - Rears all cars |
You can order police pads for the front which are a different compound and will take more abuse than the Volvo standard pad for the 280mm or 302mm front brakes.
I was under the impression that with front pads (standard Volvo) there is only one for the 15 inch (280mm) and 16 inch (302mm) as both use the same calipers. The bigger brakes just use bigger discs, longer hoses and different carriers to space the calipers further out. The 17 inch kit was totally different with different calipers, floating discs etc and has unique pads. The 15/16/17 inch reference was a Volvo reference related to the wheel size required to clear said brakes. Clearly aftermarket manufacturers may make numerous compounds but for Volvo oem AFAIK there are only 2 for the normal front brakes (standard and plod). I have no experience with the 17 inch kit but would very much like a set! |
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I've seen the volvo parts catalogue for these cars - I'm guessing from your answer that you haven't. As I said before the 17 inch kit is a completely different system - no arguement there. I don't even know why we are arguing tbh. Putting the 17 inch kit aside the 302mm kit is better than the 280mm and even better when used with the police pads (at the sacrifice of mileage for the pads as they don't last as long for obvious reasons). Does it really matter that we have to go into the whole "physics" background on everything? PS I do have an A level in physics and I'm not a fan of your tone presuming that I need teaching. You also don't get to choose "who comments what" on the forum - that's the moderators job. |
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I think from different directions, we're saying the same thing. Police pads has been done to death. Yet, this is messing-up the thread, and of course, you're correct. I can't stop you rail-roading this into whatever you wish (or anyone else come to that). Some have already tried - so I can't promise to keep the core of this thread as a signpost.
3 x Kid seats / 3 x Integrated Boosters & 7-Seater Not a fault, and certainly not a P80 killer either, but aside from the popular 7-seater conversion, if you've kids and several at that (or their friends), seat-boosters were an option that stop having booster seats floating about in your car. Stops adding to the inevitable clutter kids seem to make. Yet there when you need them. See pix. |
Here's another P80 fault I remember I had on an S70. Sometimes I had to give the driver's door a really hard slam, otherwise the red marker light in the door shut would not turn off. The negative effect was the driver's footwell light remaining on and the inability to engage the alarm with remote central locking.
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Hadn't heard of that one. Had something similar in that, I think the two are related? Where the driver's door lock micro-switch fails to make contact. Means the central-locking and alarm no longer sets via the keyfob. Will cover that when I've a mo'.
Coil Packs on 1999 & 2000 cars The last of the P80s had Denso ignition systems (it was also these that had the ETM issues covered earlier). The coil packs start to play-up at extended mileages. Car will run on four at low to mid throttle and run very lumpy. Lift off the plastic spark-plug/coil cover. Engine running, in turn pull the plug off each coil-pack, doing this should make the engine run still worse. If it doesn't, you've found the kiddy. Replace this coil-pack. Messing with coils will likely throw a ignition fault code and put on your CEL. You'll need a code reader to reset. Scanguage is good, but there's cheaper. These same coil-packs fit some later Volvos, hence Phase 2 S80 S60 V70 XC70, so cheap and plentiful. Got mine via eblag, two used packs in my stash for £13 delivered, ready for the next one or two to fail. Suppose I shoudl buy new, but at that price I'll take my chances. To identify see piccy. |
Central locking / Alarm setting issues
Fob won't lock you car? 1. The lock ring around the ignition switch - less likely. This causes startign issues - will cover that soon. 2. The lock microswitches in each door. Try the drivers door first, it'll be the one that catches the most wear. Quote: Faulty Door Lock Micro-switches How to identify! When locking the car with the fob the alarm wouldn't set. With help from the forum I found out that the micro switches in the door locks can go faulty. Here's how to identify which ones(s) without a trip to the stealers. First pull fuse 15 which should be a ten amp. Then switch the courtesy lights off using the switch in the roof console (Depressed right) Then turn the ignition on. The door/tailgate open light on the lower left on the console should be off. If it is dimly lit you have a problem. Go around one door at a time and open it. When open the light should change to brightly lit. Do this individually for the doors, the bonnet, the tailgate and this glove box. If the status of the light does NOT change when you open something then you have a problem there. I have just finished using this method to successfully determine that my rear left passenger door had a problem. Microswitch is not usually the issue per se. Mostly wear not operating said switch. You can usually cobble up a wedge under the switch. Else micowitches on eBay are £2-3 delivered. Courtesy of another thread: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=97382 |
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OK a little bit tongue in cheek but...... VW owners who see the TDi's as donor cars for engine transplants. When I've browsed fleabay for bits for mine I've quite often come across an advert for a 'can be heard running and driven engine' in a diesel 850/V70, which quite possibly means the car was not too far from roadworthy condition. Sometimes for the engine alone they have been asking £750- £1000 so its not really surprising these cars get sacrificed. It would be interesting to know how many of these engines - after possibly 20+ years and several 100K miles in a Volvo, have found new life pushing a VW around.
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Fuel pumps randomly 'fail', not nice if in lane 3 as you lose all power. Expensive from Volvo too. I went for a 40 euro used and 6yrs on all good. The 1st yard I went to had 6 850's all had their pumps removed!
Throttle cables (on cars so fitted) become 'stiff/sticky'. Replacement is easy:thumbs_up: |
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Installing a Handfree phone / Mp3 / Satnav
Post 13 covered how to hack an input into your stock head unit and I highly recommend going that way, yet there's still somewhere needed to put your Phone / Mp3 / Satnav. Swedish outfit Brodit make three mounts specifically for P80s. Examples: http://www.brodit.com/product.html?id=652412 Part No. Brodit 652412 And: http://www.brodit.com/product.html?id=652426&pn=prod Part No. Brodit 652426 Brodit stuff is very good quality, but can be pricey. eBay gets you Brodit 652412 for £9.95. Elsewhere £25.00 |
Lawn Mower Syndrome
It shouldn't be a car killer and quite how common it is I don't know (except I've had it happen to an 850 and a V70) The basic scenario is that a car that hasn't had any other problems is started for a short time, such as moving it out of the garage to get the lawnmower out from behind it, and then stopped. Next time you go to start the car it spins over OK but won't fire up. There's a couple of theories on the actual cause, I tend towards the one that the hydraulic tappets on older carts get a bit crudded up and then the cold oil doesn't flow so well leaving the valves slightly open which means there's no compression. The way to avoid it is to be sure the engine is warm before you turn it off again. When it happened to me I pulled all the plugs, put a squirt of oil in each cylinder, turned it over a couple of time with the plugs out , put the plugs back and it then fired up in a cloud of blue smoke. Snot on the dipstick The engine tends to have a lot of blow by gases in the crankcase, if the rubber rings on the dipstick have hardened and don't give a good seal the gases try to escape up the dipstick tube, when they condense in the tube they leave a load of oil/water emulsion snot on the dipstick. it can lead people to think the head gasket has blown but changing the rubber O ring on the dipstick does the job* and maybe sorting out the Positive Crankcase Ventilation PCV system to allow the gasses to be sucked back up to the manifold and burnt off in the cylinders. *a new dipstick and tube isn't too expensive from Volvo. |
And we're off...
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If the gases are trying to escape up the dipsick tube, the very last thing you'd do is seal it... if there really are crudded-up lifters, flush.
PCV This is good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwCzPPiBxk8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AucWm2zFewo |
Yes PCV is the important check, but the snot up the dipstick can occur even when the PCV is good. I'm not talking about a lot of gases trying to escape like steam from the spout of a boiling kettle (that would suggest blocked PCV), more like the steam rising gently from a hot cuppa. The dipstick tube is quite long outside of the engine block so it never warms up hence the condensation especially in winter. I had it on mine when I bought it, changed the dipstick and the tube as the top of the stick was also broken and no problems since. The replacement dipstick now has two O rings rather than one.
https://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/image...ontent/823.jpg |
This is not how the PCV system works. These O-rings are there to ensure the -ve crankcase pressure stays negative. Not to prevent gases escaping up but quite the opposite, to prevent induction of air down the dipstick tube, killing hte vacuum.
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On older cars, even with 'good' PCV the system is not up to the job, hence insufficient vacuum. This already covered in the listed hack. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...hp?f=1&t=53448 The value for clean crankcase ventilation is -0.2 kPa or lower. |
Correct fluid - Pentosin CHF 11S
As previously stated, steering box can be a weak point, later cars msut be running proper Pentosin CHF 11S in there. Earlier cars less picky. Known fragility to the steering, means a 3/8" Magnefine is a good idea. Wrong fluid soon rots the seals and at the cost of new racks, this is a P80 killer. Later car? Don't put ATF in there. Many do. Tow bars & Strut braces on the C70 These cars are known to be a bit wobbly. You might not want such a thing on your rag-top, but word is, a tow bar stops a lot of the 'wobble' not just because of adding rigidity but the pendulum-effect damps down and hence slwos down, the sweet-spot at which the body will start to shake. C70: 2001-2003 suffer from very fragile boxes Flush now. Known issue, has same awful box as P2 cars in these years. A aux cooler is a must, and the only cure if you catch it in time. Left too long and a cooler or a flush likely won't cure it, to the crusher it goes. See previous points in this thread 3/8" Magnefine (and 1/2"?) I like these in autos & steering for all. Buy two 3/8" , one for the your autobox and one for the steering. Fit when you flush. Exception: 1/2" fits the four speed, |
One-Swipe Delay wiper upgrade - Programmable Front Wiper Relay
Love this mod. Cheap to do. uses a VW relay 99 easliy and cheaply swapped. I hated the fact that my perfectly clear windscreen would be made smeary again by the extra sweep of the wipers. I loathed the non-adjustable one-setting delay and all the various niggles you have using the stock delay. If you nearly live in the thing, and do 1000s of miles as I do, very worthwhile. Bit of a 'knuckle-grazer' to get at, but as I said, a must if you actaully drive the thing... http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=51041 https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=26474 Yup, done for a tenner, paid for itself in wasted screen concentrate alone. When you want one swipe, you get one swipe. Not two. Brilliant. |
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Some idiot faults...
No Seat Belt Warning? I had this issue from the day I got my car. I was surprised to find Volvo with all the 'safety shizzle' they spin, had no idiot-lights for seat-belt warning. It's a Volvo right? Turns out it did, you can even hear the relay clicking that fires the bulbs. 2 x mini-bulbs had gone in the overhead interior-light cluster. A £3.00 fix. Head-Restraints Locked For a two years I thought they were locked. My owners manual doesn't detail this, so it was only by luck that I ever found how to ease the locked-up release. If like me you got your car as a P80 newby, third or fourth-hand, you might find the head restraints appear locked solid. So you think they are fixed which is annoying. Incorrect. It's lack of use. Jiggle and play about a bit and you'll find they flop forward to allow your seats to fold flat. |
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Antenna immobiliser-ring: Your Volvo P80 C70 / S70 / V70 starts then immediately dies/ stalls
A classic symptom for 1999 and 2000 models. Not sure if earlier models have this part. Can be the fuel-pump relay but nine times out of ten, it's the antenna ring for the immobiliser system. The ring around where your key inserts. Take the 3 torx screws out of the steering column, pop the clamshell off, and remove the antenna ring. Clean up the contacts on the plug and reinstall and see if it works again. No? Order a antenna immobiliser-ring. A proper sized can of Deoxit D5 or Inox MX3 is nearly as useful as WD40. For old contacts. Unfortunately not as cheap, but don't bother with the incy-wincy 5 & 10ml tubes. They are a false economy. Buy one large can, it will last you a lifetime. Without Deoxit or Inox the fault will return. [Great on Scalextric or your model railway BTW] Not Volvo related, but a very good demo how effective these products are: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnnSjyXyhrU It looks faked. It isn't. Deoxit D5 or Inox MX3, both are identical. Thye work as a dielectric, and prevent reoxidisation. I swear by them. Use on hi-fi, your laptop/mobile too. Works with your driver door window-switch cluster issues too. On cars of this age many plugs , contacts and connections go iffy. Used it on corroded bulb fittings for my trailer and on my dishwasher only last week. Deoxit D5 or Inox MX3? 300ml. Get whichever is cheapest, but never the tiny tubes. |
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