V70 P3 2011 D3 purchase advice
 

Hi guys,

I've recently test driven a nice V70 P3 D3 @140k miles in the plan to buy and was happy with everything except the fact it's just gone through an MOT and has the following advisories:

Coil spring corroded Both Rear (5.3.1 (b) (i))

Front Inner Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Both (5.2.3 (e))

Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (1.1.13 (a) (ii))

Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))

The most alarming is the coils and the inner tyre wear.

The tyre wear either suggests there's some toe out/ negative camber or wear in the control arm bushes or all of that? Best case there's some toe out and it can be adjusted out. However, with 140k on the clock, I'm thinking chances are high that bushes are worn. Anyone have experience of when these are likely to go? I know it depends on driving style/roads but it would be nice to get some sort of idea- same goes with the rear coil springs?

Thanks in advance! I really want to get this car! But I'm struggling to justify getting something that will need a load of work straight away!

That doesn't look too bad for a 13 year old car with 140,000 miles.

Tyre, for one to be worn and not the other it could be something as simple as being run under inflated. Does it pull to one side when you drive it ? If not I'd suspect pressure was the issue.

The rear shock bodies on mine have some surface corrosion, the springs will get replaced at the same time. 13 winters is enough.

I go through a set of rear pads roughly every 25,000 miles, new set of discs every second set of pads. The car you are looking at is coming up to 150,000 miles which for me would indicate rear pads and discs.

The chances of finding a car which is a teenager requiring zero work is a big ask. You might get lucky, chances are anything will need some work.

Hi GMcL

Cheers for your advice, appreciated. I think it looks like both front tyres are worn though from the MOT test, which makes me think there's toe issues or worn bushes. Have you replaced control arms yet on yours?

Yeah I think rear discs and pads are pretty standard stuff.

Sam

Tyres need running at 38psi really if you want to avoid excessive tyre wear.

As has been said, brakes and springs usual run of the mill. If it’s gone through test then you would presume control arms are ok but there is bound to be some wear at those miles but it’s nothing I would be concerned about. I’d probs put 2 tyres on it inflate them properly and run it but keep an eye.

Mine has just gone over 100,000 miles. Had some bushes done in the rear, not touched the front suspension yet. Budgeting for front shocks, mounts and springs before the next safety check due November 2025.

I've had my car over 10 years.

Edit: after the rear bushes were replaced I had a four wheel laser alignment done as there had been some uneven wear on the back tyres. Since then the wear has been even. I run my S60 37 at the front and 35 at the back. I'm usually in the car on my own. When I do have a big trip, fully loaded, I set them to 38 allround.

Mine has done 170,000 miles and is still running really well. I have recently replaced the rear discs - as had gone below minimum thickness. Much better braking since replacement. My car eats rear pads, but seems better since new discs. I have had 4 wheel tracking (Hunter system) done twice - both times after major suspension component replacement. This definitely improves uneven tyre wear. I too run my tyres at 38psi and that lessens edge wear as well. The rear springs are a doddle to change - no compressors needed - can post further details if you need. Just make sure you get the correct springs - there are many variants, depending on model and weight/spec from factory. You must get the correct Volvo parts numbers through VIDA or dealer.

Thanks guys for your responses, really helpful info and some good indicators that perhaps, all in all it's an alright car. Additionally, I believe the D3 of this year is without the swirl flaps, which is something else not to worry about.

I read that the cambelt had been done in 2020 when it had about 97k on the clock. According to my research it should be changed every 10 years or 72k, so looks like that should be alright for a while.

What's the life on the DMFs and the Nivomats like?

Sam

Oh that's great to hear the rear springs are easy to change too!

Those advisories are just wear and tear items really. Brake pads, brake discs... nothing to be too alarmed about. I'd suggest getting the brakes done, get yourself a new tyre and get the alignment checked.

Nivomat's are very expensive and from what I've heard are only available from the main dealer. They're great at what they do, but come repair time, Nivomat's are £500 each.

Personally, I wouldn't buy a car with Nivomat rear suspension. It depends what your needs are. If you do a lot of towing or carry heavy loads, then they make a big difference. If you don't, then a car with "ordinary" suspension will be far cheaper to repair when the shocks need replacing.

With regards to the DMF, generally, they're very good. At that mileage, I'd suspect its had a clutch at some point?

Bought my V70 D5 auto, 2012 model, last year with 120,000 miles up. Since then I've added almost 25,000 miles, and bought four new tyres, fitted new discs and pads front and back, and needed to have one of the rear callipers replaced.

The rear discs are actually a bigger headache than the front because of the electronic parking brake. When the rear calliper seized the parking brake motor casing cracked too - probably because the motor was trying to move an immovable piston.

Ds and Ps came in at £600 in all, all Pagid and fitted by a local garage, the rear calliper was sorted by the AA for £300 - on the driveway on a Saturday morning!

Just prior to my ownership the car had a new cam belt, a full service, the windscreen sealed (properly, by a auto glazing company).

Rather than worry too much about what are essentially service items it'd make sense to focus on things that could be much more expensive and problematic. I'm thinking things electronic - things like the infotainment system, the various driver aids (BLIS, traction control, ABS), the aircon, the locking system, the interior trim and fittings etc.

Cheers

Jack

Thanks again guys for further input into this decision. So it seems Nivomats are the main thing that could really make this an expensive car to run if they fail. I've been trying to find a proper answer whether they can be swapped out for standard shocks. Looks like it depends if the car has self-levelling headlights as well?

Oh and this might now be a 2012 model instead...

There's a conversion kit available, which means you can change your Nivomat shocks to standard shocks. You also have to change the springs too as far as I know, as Nivomat springs are softer than standard springs. If you don't, the car will squat too low at the back. So Nivomat springs can only be used with Nivomat shocks. Standard shocks need standard springs. So for you to do the conversion, you need to replace the shocks to standard and replace the springs to standard ones also.

Honest opinion, if you don't need Nivomat suspension (i.e. you don't tow often or carry heavy loads), don't buy a car with them... Easier option. Like I said in an earlier post, Nivomat's are great at what they do for the people that need it (frequent towers, frequent loads in the boot). They're very expensive when they fail though because they're only available from the main dealer at around £500 each, then you have to either fit them yourself or get a garage to do it. On an older car that isn't worth much, it doesn't always make financial sense to replace Nivomat's with Nivomat's (unless you absolutely need them). That's why those that have Nivomat often convert to standard suspension when they fail.

Ordinary rear shocks are about £80 each. There's a big difference in cost. I'd personally advise you to think carefully about having a car with Nivomat suspension if you don't actually need it. If you don't, just buy a car that has standard suspension. It'll save you the headache and the cost down the line too. Nivomat's, like any suspension component, will fail. Nothing lasts forever.

Ok, all makes sense. Yeah, that sounds like a ball ache to change all of that. I haven't seen a conversion kit online but probably haven't look hard enough.

The only heavy thing going into the back is my drums and people. So Nivomats are not worth it.

Basically I'm looking for a roomy estate car around the 100k miles, ideally 2010 or newer, manual/auto, not a huge engine, decent history. I've been looking/test driving Passats and they're the only thing that seems to be ticking the boxes so far for my 5k top budget.

Understandable. Volvo's are pricey, but they're more comfortable than a Passat in my opinion. Not that there's anything wrong with a Passat, but it can't match Volvo comfort. In saying that, the Passat will be better on fuel (they're four cylinder engines) and the boot is slightly larger.

Skoda Superb might also be another option for you. The boot is huge in one of those. Far bigger than the Passat or Volvo, but again, not as comfortable.

[QUOTE=Kev0607;2946224] Honest opinion, if you don't need Nivomat suspension (i.e. you don't tow often or carry heavy loads), don't buy a car with them... Easier option.

Exactly why i bought a standard car and made it look like an R Design, which all have (in the UK) Nivomats as standard. When starting with cars done 100,000 miles (as I do), it's these factors that make it affordable or not. I changed all the suspension (Bilstein B4s plus Eibach springs) for the cost of one rear Nivomat shock...

Hi Sam, I think the cambelt is 10 years or 100K - whichever comes soonest, but the Aux belt and the aircon belts need doing every 5 years or 55k miles I think. I'd double check both belt changes (and aux belt tensioner) - as if they go kaput - you risk the whole engine going kaput...which isn't ideal:regular_smile: