|
Replacing the Fuel Pump/Sender Unit
3 Attachment(s)
This guide applies to all S40 and V40 from 1996 to 2004. The fuel pump sender unit might look different on the Phase 1 cars (1996-2000). The 1.9D, 1.9TD and 1.8 GDI S40 and V40 don't have the pump in the sender unit and instead use the high pressure pumps in the engine compartment. I have also attached in the bottom the VADIS instructions for this job, so have a read through them too if you want. First of all you need to disconnect the car battery, as fuel is highly flammable. Make sure you have the Radio code for your stereo when disconnecting the battery. Avoid smoking or anything that may cause any sparks and make sure you have the rear doors or windows open for ventilation. Fuel fumes may smell nice and give you a high, but they are not good for you.... You now need to remove the rear seats. Lift the bases up and undo these 4 bolts and remove the seats out of the way http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump01.jpg Then lift the carpet carefully and move it aside tucking the edges in the footwell areas so it stays there. Undo the four screws securing this top metal cover and remove it http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump02.jpg You will now see another metal cover which seems to offer some extra protection and hold the pump/fuel deposit secured (only guessing here). Just lift it up and out of the way. You might need a screwdriver to lever it out, but most times it should just come out. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump03.jpg Now you can see the top of the fuel pump. Use a marker pen and mark a small line or dot where the pump body is in relation to the metal car body (Many thanks to Keith (960kg) for pointing this out to me) http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump04.jpg Now you need to unclip the top connector which powers the fuel pump. Then you need to carefully remove the fuel line connectors. NOTE the connections for the fuel lines to avoid confusion when you are putting everything bck together. To remove the fuel lines you need to push in these two clips as seen in the next photo (one is red and other is black) and pull out the fuel lines. Make sure you have some sort of cloth or kitchen towels handy, as there will be a tiny bit of fuel spillage when disconnecting the fuel lines. Move the fuel lines and power cable aside (I personally found it easier to tuck them under). You now need to remove the black ring/plastic nut/top cover securing the fuel pump to the tank. There is a special Volvo tool (9995622) for this which I don't have. I personally used a blunt large flat blade screwdriver (or a piece of wood) (positioned at the tip of the green arrow) and used a mallet to gently push the ring anticlockwise. After a few knocks (1-2 turns of the ring, you should be able to turn it by hand (both hands) and unscrew it. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump05.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump06.jpg Remove the black ring out of the way and lift up the fuel pump unit carefully, so you don't bend the metal rod of the floater. I found that after I raised the pump unit a couple of inches, I tilted it a bit forward and wiggled it out. JOB DONE!!! http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump07.jpg When you want to put the pump back in, I found it easier to place the rubber seal around the fuel pump unit on the opening of the fuel tank and then push in the fuel pump unit in (see green arrow). Tighten the black ring to 50Nm http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump08.jpg And a few more photos of the fuel pump sender unit http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump09.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump10.jpg Close-up photo of potentiometer / fuel level sensor. If your fuel gauge is reading the fuel level incorrectly, give the contacts a good wipe to clean them http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump11.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump12.jpg Hopes this helps some people and please take care when following this guide. |
Fantastic! Thank you! It was so clean inside, or u cleaned it?
|
Nope. That's exactly how it was. I only wiped the top part which is exposed to the outside. This pump and the guide itself is actually from Siamblue's previous T4
|
fantastic how to as always gatos
|
http://m.foto.radikal.ru/0706/34/b3dd03f3e04e.jpg
http://u.foto.radikal.ru/0706/fb/f1b0b386f34f.jpg Unit from Russia...There is one huge problem to find good quality fuel... |
Quote:
|
bookmarked alex ;o)
|
Quote:
|
After a few months of having no fuel in my car, I now have a working guage again. Yeah.
Cheers for the guide Alex. |
Great guide, may I add a tip?
Check the condition of the cables from the fuel reading potentiometer and the top of the pump. The up and down motion can cause the cable to break. A multimeter is great for checking this kind of stuff out. A quick solder fixed mine (my gauge was showing empty). |
I had the same.... non working fuel gauge. After a quick read on this, the job was done and dusted in about 30 mins...
Fuel gauge now working Thanks Chaps :thumbs_up: |
Glad I could help
|
Quote:
|
Hi as any one got a guide to the wiring of the fuel pump/sender unit
|
fantastic how to guide gatos as always. this is a great help my guage works OK ish it just doesn't read full when it is full its a mark or 2 off, so when the weather gets better!!!! i will sort it out.
|
Great walkthrough Gatos!!!!
I Love this instruction. I drove about three months with the needle of my fuelmeter on zero. I hated this. My volvogarage repared this problem three times and still after one year the problem came back. I never heard a clear explanation from the garage about the cause. Now I know. In my case TWO wires were broken.
Watch out when you solder, the plastic housing tends to melt when you heat the connector where the wire fits in. Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou!!!!!!!!!!:star: |
Re-upload of photos
Thank you Gatos for the excellent write up!
|
Finally got round to having a look at mine. Broken wire so soldered and it's working again. Quick tip from me is to have some baby wipes present at all times and have a good clean as you go. A stiff rag or cover of some sort is handy when the unit is out of the car and the tank is exposed to cover it from pesky flies or accidental debris getting into the tank.
Its also 100% easier to put the rubber seal in first when refitting the sender unit. Thanks for the guide Gatos, big thumbs up from me. |
Another thing I noticed is that after disconnecting the battery the mileage trip info on the dash and info center display went back to zero. Might be worthwhile making a note of your details beforehand just in case you have a problem and have to replace a faulty unit.
|
Hello
I am new to the forum and to volvos I recently got a 2010 volvo c30 1.6D and the fuel gauge has never worked correctly on it. it drops to half a tank very soon after filling. I took it to volvo here (v expensive) and they hooked it up to VIDA and showed no errors so must be similar problem as this one. I have it booked into my mechanic to try and solve it this saturday. Do i need to get a new seal for it? anything else i should know. Really hoping it is something simple as I'm broke and volvo quoted £300 put new sender unit in and may not even need it. They just told me computer works..... thanks in advance |
You shouldn't need a new seal, just have a read from start to finish on this thread and have a go yourself, not as daunting as it seems and the step by step procedure from gatos is excellent.
|
Quote:
I take it its under the rear seats in a c30 as well? thanks |
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:
You might get more help if you ask the people in the C30 section of this forum: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=58 |
Quote:
thanks very much for the pdfs! just printed them off in time let you know how i get on |
Good luck with it. Seems a hell of a job comparing to the S/V40.
|
Quote:
the mechanic never got a chance to look at it today but is reading through all the print offs! seems like a lot alright. Do you think its like to be a wire loose? maybe i should just put a new unit in in case he cant fix it! major pain! got it booked in for next sat again so more time to think. Not best start to my first volvo but could be worse |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:27. |
Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.