2002 S40T Battery size did you install?
 

Hi all,

I'm up to my 4th battery since 2004(second hand purchase)
Original battery 520Cca: 5 years
Second battery Exide 500Cca: 6 years
Third battery Exide 550Cca: 8 years
Fourth battery Exide Extreme 700Cca: Not purchased yet.

What battery do you have installed and what is the Cca?
Is the heavier 17.5kg Exide Extreme over kill and worth the extra cost for life expectancy?

My current battery was tested by Kmart Auto who said it still has life and not urgent replacement but I'm getting dashboard lights and no crank.... I pop the hood tap the battery terminals and it starts and go for a 20 minute drive and all good for future starts. Garaged at home.

Anyone please comment?
Over 100 views and no reply?

Maybe fixing the battery terminal issue would be a good place to start?
My original volvo battery lasted 11 years, but when it failed, it did so without any warning. I've had several batteries since then, probably averaging about 4 years life before showing signs of failing. My current battery was bought for another car, but didn't get used, so it ended up on the V40, it's only a small exide 063. 420cca 44Ah . Although this is not the correct battery & a bit too small it does perform quite well, even though it's been on for about 3 years.

I am noticing a bit of build up on terminals that I remove.
Otherwise they are painted... to keep corrosion away.

Thanks for response....

Anyone have a big battery installed in their S40?

I have a genuine Volvo battery in my year 2002 T4.

Part number 30659798

70Ah 600A

Not much room in the battery tray for anything larger?

Thankyou for your reply

Hi mate, I have three 770 or 780Cca Exides two on a hilux surf and the other on a fiat scudo 2.0 both are diesels and turn over excellent so should be good on petrol engines as long as they fit in your battery tray, all three just over a year old so cant comment on how long they will last, good luck, cam.

I've ordered the new battery..... but

I started fine drive 5 km parked and came back to car 30 minutes later.
Attempted to start and all lights on dashboard but no crank.
Opened closed glove box(this has worked before) re attempt no turnover but a click... no crank.
Opened hood checked battery and terminals good... tapped em a couple of times. Closed hood. Attempted restart and no crank

Walked away and wait 30 minutes came back to car. Got it waited to all lights off and Fan on O position it starts up???? 🤷*♂️🤷*♂️🤷*♂️🤷*♂️

So go for a drive for 30 minutes stop and it starts again and drive home.
Now I'm told it could be the starter or solenoid ???
Where is the starter located as the vvt solenoid is on top of engine.

Could my 8 year old battery be fine and actually the starter or solenoid issue?

The starter sits low down on the front of the engine. The solenoid referred to is the starter solenoid which sits on top of the starter. Completely different to the vvt solenoid which is a different unconnected component.

So it started fine just now in garage.... reversed and put battery analyzer on. 4 Bars indicating 12 volts and no issues.

Started fine after looking under hood and headlights bright.
Parked car.

I did notice coolant had leaked from back of engine in garage floor?
How does mechanic test starter motor without taking it out.
If OBD has no faults?

About to install new battery as Mechanic claims my battery is to small?

Found this info for reference:
1996 to 2004 Volvo S40 / V40 Battery Specifications
(max battery dimensions 278 x 175 x 190 mm)
Petrol Engines: 12v, 62Ah 520A H5 battery (optionally 72 Ah, 600A H6 battery[insert_php]$link_name =’bateria_H6_600A’; $FileLocation = “/inclds/insert_amz_ass.php”;include($_SERVER[“DOCUMENT_ROOT”].$FileLocation);[/insert_php])
Diesel Engines: 12v, 72Ah 600A H6 battery[insert_php]$link_name =’bateria_H6_600A’; $FileLocation = “/inclds/insert_amz_ass.php”;include($_SERVER[“DOCUMENT_ROOT”].$FileLocation);[/insert_php]

I'm putting in an Excide Extreme 12V 70AH 700CCA the biggest I've had in it to date!
Note the important numbers are the AH and RC..... so I'm actually 2AH short of Max specs 🤔

Mechanic said the clamp under the Coolant refill bottle is too be replaced as maybe cause of leak. Lifted it straight up out of position to check

The starter is located under that black plate in front of engine left of air intake pipe on right hang drive?

Battery installed... Took 2hrs as had to clean positive terminal and work out the remove the washer with paint on it.... that then loosened the terminals to remove.
Now pull up to remove battery locker and push down to install as per this video
https://youtu.be/-bARx9KIncU

From Rego Volvo said Sold as 2003 S40T.... but build is before Dec 2002... so is insurance not via the build date? It has the Grill and wheels of 2003.
Volvo Battery Part No. 30659797
$411.13 Could not tell me the CCA or AH. 😡

Now I found this on negative lead... repairable before replacing?
Volvo part No. 30857415
$125.84 Not available from Volvo anymore?

Regarding the leads: that will be the problem with starting - I'm surprised your mechanic hasn't found that. Best bet to replace is get a good one from a scrappie or take the original to an auto electrician and get a new one made up to pattern.

Also best to check the red cable going from the battery to the starter motor. If the cable is good, it still needs disconnecting at the starter and the terminals cleaning.

Appreciate the response.
I had more of a build up at the +ve terminal between battery and terminal than I could see before removed. I think the Red +ve cable has no issues at starter motor.
Will mention to mechanic if -ve needs replacing/repairing.

I have known corrosion to cause resistance where the battery cable is crimped in to the terminals, not easy to spot as it can't really be seen. May be a good idea to do a voltage drop test on the cables using a multimeter ?

What's the technique of voltage drop test on cables please?

Also I mentioned my coolant was low so I topped up but did not leave cap off on start to circulate, which I think has caused the bottom clip on hose to loosen and is now leaking.
Mechanic says next service will resolve but it's 6k away 🤦*♂️

To do a voltage drop test on battery cables. Set the multimeter on the lower settings volts DC.There are various points where you can test, but to start with, put the red probe on the positive battery post & the black one on the cable attachment stud on the starter motor & crank the engine.Ideally, the meter should give a zero voltage reading, but any voltage indicates some resistance, anything above 0.3 volt probably needs attention. You can also do this on the alternator terminal with the engine running to see if you lose any voltage whilst charging. To check the negative cable, reverse the cables & do a similar test from the battery negative post, & engine block & the body earth. You may need to disconnect the crank sensor to stop the engine firing up while you do the test, or you may not get a stable reading, also get someone to crank the engine, while you use the meter. There are various Youtube videos that probably demonstrate the procedure better than i can explain it

The radiator bottom hose clip is known for corroding & failing. replace it, preferably with a stainless steel clip.

Today after driving 20kms+, parking and then driving another 10km, parking returned to car after 5 minutes on flat ground..... went to start and all lights on dashboard and no turn over or sound in engine.
As per start of thread new battery.
Opened/closed door, glovebox and sat for a moment.
Eventually started as normal?
Ran without issue rest of day.

Cause?

So another two drives today and in another 7/11 all lights no noise.
Battery looked good and terminals.
Ended up putting key in opposite way.
Could the key/ignition be a factor?
Full tank of fuel too.

So nice sunny 20 degree day 3/4 tank of fuel. 304500kms service not due 307000km
New battery in car March 2023.
Have only driven short 5-10km distances with the odd 20 minute drive over past 6 months.
Car garaged overnight and it's been winter down here.. Australia.

Issues:
1. 28th April car stopped at Red traffic lights. Waiting in drive. Restarted straight away.
2. 1st May car stopped at Red traffic lights. All lights dollars in dash. Started straight away.
3. 16th May car stopped on reverse in garage. Noted coolant leak on floor.
4. 20th May car stalled at lights again.
5. 15th August Car driven from garage, parked. All lights no sound. Eventually started after 10 minutes.
6. 21st August drove 5kms parked, drove 10 km parked and in return to car all lights, no sound from engine. after multiple attempts and 20 minutes eventually cranked and then started.
7th 3rd September drove 5 km parked and then drove another 3km parked and car parked in sun. returned to car. All lights no sound. Battery light green, terminals clean.
Tried let different way, open glove box open door popped hood, all levels looked good, reading lights turn on inside car, moved brake pedal, moved auto gear change into neutral, drive park. handbrake in off. After about 15 minutes car starts and runs normal?

Drove the car 20+ minutes, stopped at traffic lights no issues after today's issue.

So things to check?
Electrical?
Fuses?
Wires/ cables?
Starter motor?
Alternator?

Looking like something in the LOOM going by this post thread: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=144411&page=4

So it happens again on 6th Oct.... lights no crank had driven car more than 10kms and parked for 10 minutes.

On opening the hood I touched the cables going to negative terminal(plastic had been melted in part) Also noted a small connector off positive battery terminal that attached to the air filter was not staying in its spot and tried repostioning that.
Car started.
Drive home and placed a plastic tie to keep the connector in place to the air filter and upright.

12th October Garage to 5kms parked.
Can't back lights no crank, tried globe box, key in/out, brake pedal and opened hood and moved wires near battery and starter motor with hand.
Car starts drive 5 kms Park, return to car and starts fine.
Drive 2 km and park in underground carpark.
Away from car for 15 minutes come back and try everything 3 times with breaks in-between with no crank.
Walk away from car and lock.
Comeback with portable jumper.
Hop in car and car starts without even using jumper or opening hood?????
Drive home park in garage.
It's auto electrician time 🤷*♂️

So going to have an Auto electrician look at it...
When I called he said well I'll have to see the issue occur?
I'd already told him it's sporadic.... suggested he might spot the issue on review with his vast experience 🤷*♂️

Suggestions/tips on what to say and point out?

So taken to auto electrician.
Tested positive wire from battery and said dropping 1/2 volt... not an issue unless over 1 volt.
Showed corroded negative wire said never good and is replacing now.
Did wonder if heat issue causing no crank but lights.

Also said age maybe starter or solenoid worm out....

But of course it started flawless the 5-10 starts in shop today 🤷🙄

Edit: So I think I just got ripped off.... charged me 2hrs labour to replace the negative cable with aftermarket part... $198Au.

So drive down into car Park.
Parked.
Came back to car, opened via fog.
All lights no ignition turn over again.
Battery terminals clean
Battery green and newish
Needed coolant to up.
Took 5 minutes to eventually get Crank and started.
Electrical? Battery terminals and grounding cables newly installed?

Happened again today.

Drove 15 minutes with 3 stops.
Last stop, went inside for 1hr, car parked on up hill, 1/2 tank of fuel.
Came back to car key in ignition and lights and no noise.
Took key out put back in upside down. same
Locked car, glove box open, waited couple of minutes.
Key in upside down and started without issue.
Is it the barrel of key?
Solenoid or starter motor?

Have you had the car read by VIDA diagnostics? I would want to see if there are any stored codes which might give a clue as to what has been going on.

Have you checked the immobiliser antenna connector ? Just removing the connector plug & pushing it back on can often solve this common problem ?