Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin (Post 2611754)

Re the Volvo tool. It works. Loki loans one out. If keeping the car, buying the tool was for me an obvious sensible investment.

Reams can be written and have been written, some disparaging, for and against the tool and whether to use it.

I could not expect to shift that tightness with a 12" breaker bar even when I was younger. My breaker bar of choice now is 2 metres.

Impact driver. Used by some very experienced forum members. There is an interesting thread where Classic Swede and his father (iirc) changed a belt road side in 25 seconds. I quote that time inaccurately. Beware tightening with impact driver.

There's a lot to be said for Clifford Pope's method. Cut the lower belt cover. such that it can be removed and replaced without disturbing the crankshaft pulley bolt. It has been discussed in the forum. I understand no problem has been experienced from ingress of anything.

Good luck.

.

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2615336)

The screwdriver method never fails for very tight oil filters.

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope (Post 2615479)

Oh yes it does!

I found one once that was so tight the screwdriver simply ripped a slot round the filter until turned to a position where the screwdriver couldn't turn any more because of obstructions.
The can is quite thin, and only really has any strength while intact. In the end it took a chain on a socket drive to budge it - the only tool that you can turn continually, from underneath, without running into things. The can was completely mangled and crushed into the central core before it unscrewed.

But I agree, usually it works. :)

Originally Posted by CosmicBike (Post 2614705)

Whilst I've read that the LH2.4 system deals with the timing and it is therefore not adjustable, the facility to do so, mechanically at least, exists.

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope (Post 2615482)

That's interesting - how does it do that? I didn't think turning the distributor actually altered the timing of the spark - I thought the spark was timed by the electronic control, and the distributor was simply the mechanism for passing the message on to the plugs. Or am I missing something?

Originally Posted by CosmicBike (Post 2615523)

Ergo, if the body of the dizzy is rotated, the point at which the spark is sent to the plugs changes, and the dizzy mount is slotted to allow for this. If .

Originally Posted by CosmicBike (Post 2615526)

I did an essential drive today in Grace. Dog food and Costco. Still rough at low rpm, but good on the motorway.
I also tried to put me through the windscreen, I can confirm that with clean brake fluid, they work very well indeed!!!

As an aside, the annoying seatbelt warning flasher has stopped working. Whilst a bit of a result, it doesn't affect anything else does it?

Originally Posted by CosmicBike (Post 2615523)

I'm not sure, my normal territory is Pinto engines with carbs, so timing is entirely mechanical, with adjustment by rotating the dizzy body.

The Volvo dizzy is driven by the auxiliary shaft, which is driven by the timing belt. Ergo, if the body of the dizzy is rotated, the point at which the spark is sent to the plugs changes, and the dizzy mount is slotted to allow for this. If I remember I'll post a pic.

The one thing I do know. My belt was 1 tooth out, on the aux shaft, from the timing marks. The rotor arm was, with the No.1 cylinder at TDC, just after the No.1 plug contact. Rotating the body would correct this.

I guess I'll have a play. If the Pinto is anything to go by, very small rotational adjustments make a big difference to how the car runs. One of mine with a hot cam in it needs 14 degrees or it simply won't run, yet a standard cam is happy at 8 degrees.