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-   -   244GL 1981 getting back on the road (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=315457)

Laird Scooby Jul 9th, 2021 08:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt (Post 2751730)
Line up the crankshaft pulley mark with the timing belt cover mark and then remove the belt cover. The camshaft sprocket should be lined up with the notch in the cambox lid and the auxiliary shaft mark with its corresponding mark on the block. Turn the crankshaft until they do line up.

Just to add a little useful info on this, turn the crankshaft clockwise as viewed from the front when lining up the marks. If you happen to miss them and go past, turn another nearly 2 full turns on the crank and be more careful next time. Sounds a bit fussy i know but there are many good reasons for this.

Not 100% sure this applies to the B21 but certainly on the B2xx engines, retension the belt after 600 miles by setting the timing to the timed position (crank @ 0deg, cam and aux shaft marks lined up against their notches) and release the tensioner locknut so the tensioner spring can take any slack out of the belt and then retighten the locknut.

This can be done (on the B2xx engines at least and i believe the B2x) simply by removing the rubber plug/grommet in the upper timing cover, checking the timing marks and using a socket through the rubber plug hole. Refit the rubber plug after.

loki_the_glt Jul 10th, 2021 08:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2751737)
Just to add a little useful info on this, turn the crankshaft clockwise as viewed from the front when lining up the marks. If you happen to miss them and go past, turn another nearly 2 full turns on the crank and be more careful next time. Sounds a bit fussy i know but there are many good reasons for this.

Not 100% sure this applies to the B21 but certainly on the B2xx engines, retension the belt after 600 miles by setting the timing to the timed position (crank @ 0deg, cam and aux shaft marks lined up against their notches) and release the tensioner locknut so the tensioner spring can take any slack out of the belt and then retighten the locknut.

This can be done (on the B2xx engines at least and i believe the B2x) simply by removing the rubber plug/grommet in the upper timing cover, checking the timing marks and using a socket through the rubber plug hole. Refit the rubber plug after.

Good shout Laird; the B21s also have the rubber bung and the Haynes manuals DO recommend re-tensioning after a few hundred miles.

Othen Jul 10th, 2021 09:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt (Post 2752139)
Good shout Laird; the B21s also have the rubber bung and the Haynes manuals DO recommend re-tensioning after a few hundred miles.

... I have a feeling our friend dmw244gl won't be keeping the motor car long enough to worry about re-tensioning the cam belt :-)

Laird Scooby Jul 10th, 2021 12:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2752151)
... I have a feeling our friend dmw244gl won't be keeping the motor car long enough to worry about re-tensioning the cam belt :-)

Sadly i think you're right Alan but it would be foolish to not do those 600 miles to give the car a shake-down and then tighten it again before selling. Last thing he would want is a buyer taking him to court for a blown engine becauses of either timing belt failure or something else that could have been found on a proper shake-down.

There's a buyers guide on the 240 in the current issue of Practical Classics, think they have some "facts" wrong but i don't know the 240 in intimate detail to be sure about that. For example, they are quoting the 2316cc injection engine as 134bhp and electronic injection. Strange! :err:

XC90Mk1 Jul 10th, 2021 15:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2751737)
Just to add a little useful info on this, turn the crankshaft clockwise as viewed from the front when lining up the marks. If you happen to miss them and go past, turn another nearly 2 full turns on the crank and be more careful next time. Sounds a bit fussy i know but there are many good reasons for this.

Not 100% sure this applies to the B21 but certainly on the B2xx engines, retension the belt after 600 miles by setting the timing to the timed position (crank @ 0deg, cam and aux shaft marks lined up against their notches) and release the tensioner locknut so the tensioner spring can take any slack out of the belt and then retighten the locknut.

This can be done (on the B2xx engines at least and i believe the B2x) simply by removing the rubber plug/grommet in the upper timing cover, checking the timing marks and using a socket through the rubber plug hole. Refit the rubber plug after.

I have changed the cam belts on all my cars and it’s always been my belief that engines should only ever be turned clock wise as you say.

loki_the_glt Jul 10th, 2021 16:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2752205)
S
There's a buyers guide on the 240 in the current issue of Practical Classics, think they have some "facts" wrong but i don't know the 240 in intimate detail to be sure about that. For example, they are quoting the 2316cc injection engine as 134bhp and electronic injection. Strange! :err:

The car they use to illustrate the article was described by the vendors as "original". If so, then it must be unique as it uses 1979-81 tail lamps and roof-mounted radio antenna with a post-1983 (I think) front end.

B23E and B230E used K-Jetronic which is essentially mechanical; the last models used Bosch LH2.something. B23E's developed 140BHP while B230Es put out 133BHP

I suspect that the 240 mavens will have a field day at the BKV tomorrow! Especially if the Practical Classics car turns up.

Laird Scooby Jul 10th, 2021 16:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt (Post 2752260)
The car they use to illustrate the article was described by the vendors as "original". If so, then it must be unique as it uses 1979-81 tail lamps and roof-mounted radio antenna with a post-1983 (I think) front end.

B23E and B230E used K-Jetronic which is essentially mechanical; the last models used Bosch LH2.something. B23E's developed 140BHP while B230Es put out 133BHP

I suspect that the 240 mavens will have a field day at the BKV tomorrow! Especially if the Practical Classics car turns up.

I've found the B230E listed in various places as 129, 131 and 133bhp (not only general literature but also Volvo!) but they're all 131 +/-2bhp so within the bounds of possibility. I didn't know the B23E was rated at 140bhp but it makes sense, it wasn't tuned for economy as much as the B230E was.

I thought there were a few strange looking things on that red one in PC as well, couldn't put my finger on what exactly but enough to argue it wasn't original!

I wouldn't call either of my cars totally original, my 760 has the later clear front indicators, clear rear indicators, one (so far) darker refurbished alloy, aftermarket twin tailpipe polycarbonate/stainless steel back box, lighter carpet than it left the factory with plus a load of other very subtle mods you won't find unless you go looking and really know the model.

Ditto on my Rover, it's running on S/V40 Telesto alloys, has a unique custom, hand-built grille, day running lights built into the front indicators, Atlantic blue carpets from a Mk1 (rare in those), door card inserts in Atlantic blue leather (recoloured from Stone Beige originally), a custom cup-holder (only know of one other car similar, made using the same bits) and various other things that aren't original and are generally hidden until used/needed.

That said, they all make life easier/better/nicer for me and even the purists would have a hard time spotting the differences - even the grille!

dmw244gl Jul 12th, 2021 11:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2752151)
... I have a feeling our friend dmw244gl won't be keeping the motor car long enough to worry about re-tensioning the cam belt :-)

your correct, this was always to do up and get running and then sell for my uncle to help him out.

Thanks for all the guidance and help.

the car is with a family friend at the moment, whos a mechanic who's doing the work.

Othen Jul 13th, 2021 05:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmw244gl (Post 2752722)
your correct, this was always to do up and get running and then sell for my uncle to help him out.

Thanks for all the guidance and help.

the car is with a family friend at the moment, whos a mechanic who's doing the work.

Absolutely, you had explained that previously. I think it is commendable that you have taken on this project in order to help your uncle - well done.

We all wish you well with the project, and in achieving a good sale price (without having too much expense) for your uncle.

Alan

dmw244gl Aug 27th, 2021 14:40

sorry for the slow updates, been away.

so ordered some second hand parts, which have all been fitted now.

sorted the broken screw thread out with a second hand distribtutor unit and lucky got a deal on another stromberg 175 carb for it to and its running so much better now.

been out for a few drives in it recently and enjoyed the drive, only done about 100 miles. its a good arm work out at slow speeds,

next is to give it a clean inside now its back at mine.


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