Volvo Owners Club Forum - General: - V50/S40 DPF or FAP filter removal

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- - General: V50/S40 DPF or FAP filter removal (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=101173)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gel (Post 956192)

http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice...e-filters.html

OK our car runs around town 75% of the time with a weekly motorway run of around 100 miles

Does fuel type affect DPF performance, any to avoid ?

Any thoughts on what mileage DPF issues start to appear?

Perhaps I should just hoof it every now and then, when its nice and warm !!:)

Although I'm not impressed with my D2, I will say that regarding the DPF, it so far (only 7600 miles) has been faultless. Despite mostly short-hop driving between 4 and 6 miles, the car seems to run at least 1000 miles between regens and other than passing increase in consumption, the regens goes by unnoticed.

This is all very interesting, especially as my car limped home tonight for the first time. After google searching then checking the vin, I discovered that my s40 has the D4204T engine and the 8th character is the dreaded 5, so I am also the proud owner of a DPF.

Assuming that the engine is a D4, is it also right to assume that it has to comply to Euro 4 emissions laws, therefore meaning that the DPF can be removed?

Waking up this thread :)

I have problems with my DPF and I hope it's the Pressure Sensor that is the fault.

I'm going to replace the Pressure Sensor with a potentiometer too, just to see if the DPF regens all the time anyways or not.

BUT, how do I know which connector is the +5V, earth and signal? How do I measure this?

If your car is an early one, then there is a modification to the sensing pipes that stop condensation. This is as far as I'm aware be main reson for limp mode condition and therfore Differential pressure sensor failure.

My 2.0D had two over 110k miles.

The sensor will probably have failed and can be bought from any Ford dealer. Just check the part number stamped on the moulding.

Can't help on voltage output, but there are three wires I think. One will be supply, one return (grnd) and the other signal.

Perhaps you can put a meter on each pin wrt chassis and see what you get.

I'm considering surgery on this to remove the damn thing. Should improve MPG and BHP.

sorry, double post. please see below.

Hello All,

I've just aquired a cheap 54 plate v50 with 180k on the clock.

Only problem is it appears to have a dpf fault, namely sump filling up (previous also reported a drop in fuel economy).

I'd like to remove the dpf, so my question is: how many people have done this potentiometer modification and if so have you experienced any problems with it? and can you clarify which wires are feed/earth/ecu signal?

Failing that, if its better to get the ECU re-programmed can anyone recommend a company to do this?

I can remove the filter myself, just don't want to spend a fortune getting the electrical side sorted.

thanks, Gav.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stew (Post 713096)

Hello,
Not sure if this subject has already been covered but I thought I would post it in case it is of some use to people.
I have recently been having problems with my 2.0 TDI 2005 Volvo V50 going into limp mode. I did a diagnostic check and found it was showing a blocked DPF filter. I tried cleaning the filter with jet wash, detergent etc which worked for a while but it soon started to clog again as I use the car mainly around town. Decided that instead of replacing the filter I would try to remove it all together. Now I must point out before I go on that I am not some sort of electrical/electronic wizard, I just did a bit of reading and came up with a solution.

As you will probably be aware, you can’t just remove the DPF and begin driving again as the pressure sensor for the DPF will show a fault. To prevent this from happening you need to fool the ECU into thinking that the DPF is working fine. This was not as hard as I first thought. The sensor for the DPF (attached to the battery housing) is fairly simple. It has two pressure pipes which are feed from either side of the filter, an electrical socket with a 5 volt live, an earth and an output wire which sends a voltage to the ecu. I worked out that if the ECU receives a voltage of approximately 0.35 volts it believes that the filter is working fine. I therefore cut the three wires feeding the sensor and fitted a 5k Cermet potentiometer (see below). These can be found at Maplin or eBay for under £1.50p

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2202

These simply allow you to adjust the output voltage from 5volts down to zero in very fine increments. I then soldered the earth wire to the earth connection of the potentiometer, the 5v cable and output cable to the remaining connections on the potentiometer. Once that was done it was just a simple case of setting the output voltage to the desired reading which is approximately .35 of a volt and clearing any fault codes from the ECU. I also took the DPF filter off the car and removed the carbon insert with a large drill.

The engine has run for a few weeks now with no pending or current faults on the ECU.

Like I said at the start, I am no technical guru but I would say that anyone who can use a soldering iron, multimeter and a large drill could do this and save a fortune on replacing DPF’s or having your ECU remapped.

Hope this is of help to someone.

Cheers,

Stew

Stew have made a video of your fix posting shortly perfecto

Worked a treat thanks to all hope this helps others out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMf4m946aKA&feature=plcp