personal pref only, there Maybe a better solution

3 or more partial changes, with about a 100(ish) miles between them "should" replace about 85-95% of the ATF with fresh,

https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...ally-effective

^^ worth a Read


Dash cam , not a clue :D





it May be relating to the Cam belt,,,
up to you If you choose to go with that OR for the £ get a new one/tensioner/aux belt/tensioner done so You know Exactly when on date/miles it Was done

Aisin Seiki wouldn't have gone to the effort and expense of fitting a drain plug if that were the case.

Going to pop into the local main stealer to check there are no outstanding recalls. Might just mention the transmission service to see what their response is out of interest. Better not mention the belt, they'll probably want a £1000 for it.

do let us know ,,
theres a "bit" of a history of "doesnt need anything/sealed for life" and people not being Offered an ATF change by main dealers,,,

you may as well Ask about the cam belt/aux belt + tensioners :D
there is Usually a comfortable seat + free coffee to get over the shock :D

Call this company, they’ve got a proven record on diagnostic and solving issues on Aisin gearboxes, they’ll be able to advise

https://hortoncars.co.uk/

TT

Not near me unfortunately. I guess for those seeking somebody out, these types of specialists are the way to go.

They do give advice too, it’s worth a call.

TT

Will the vehicle benefit from some sort of application of underseal?

I know this is a common procedure for J imports, although my mechanic said there is definitely some factory protection already on. I guess the question is whether if it is to European spec? If it is, there seems little point in applying anything further unless there's something out there that is really good stuff and will be of benefit. Apparently the best way to do it is a steam clean followed by application of whatever product.

Picked it up earlier, very comfortable and mostly okay. Couple of things I noticed were I wasn't sure if the gear shifter seemed slightly stiff. I'm used to driving a manual where a flick of the wrist can change up, but with this it seemed to take a bit more of a push or pull. It might be normal though. I'm also not sure if I could hear a slight humming. Will have to have another listen.

Going to get it serviced soon. From what I've read;

Oil & filter. Air filter. Cabin filter (tricky job)
Spark plugs
Brake fluid change

Timing belt kit & Auxiliary belts (specialist)

Transmission fluid strategy?

you Are using the "button" on the shifter to move it?
when stopped, foot on brake, pull "button/lever" on shifter - moves freely
ditto when going from R <>N <>D , tho you Can move it from D to N without needing the button

yes there Is a bit of resistance when in sequential mode, and you do (or at least on my 2) need to use the Full travel of the shifter to +/- (and it Will only do the shift when the rev's are close to correct)

cabin filter ,, follow the LONG thread on here, its DIY'able,, DO get a magnetic pick up tool for the bolts holding the CEM bracket ,,,,you will find out why if you dont :D

belts + Atf,, Worth considering using Horton's for both @ the same time (and plugs) wallet depending, yes its a drive,,yes its a wait but there rep ,,its worth it,, esp when you look at the £ of a replacment geatronic box.

oh and factor in spending £ on the insides to get it Clean,, all DIY jobs,
leather steering wheel?
pop to halfrauds :P Autoglym leather Cleaner and a clean microfiber cloth,, work the cleaner into the wheel,, ditto the shifter,,

you Will be looking at the cloth after and thinking "uck"