Hi, Mine doesn't stick at 2000 rpm before changing up, it goes beyond that if you put your foot down. but if take it easy just to see what the lowest rpm it will change, it's 2000rpm. hope this helps

So I have managed to get a test drive of a 2010 xc90 D5, not the exact same spec as my 2013 200HP but as near as I could get and I would expect the transmission to behave in the same way. I also have it booked in with an independent specialist next Monday as I'm pretty certain that tomorrow's result will confirm I have an issue. In the meantime, can anyone advise how their D5 auto behaves in M mode. Do the revs drop off and pick up again a couple of times whilst in gear? For example, with gradual acceleration on 2nd the car will reach 2000RPM drop to around 1800 and then move back up until I up shift. Same in 3rd but doesn't seem to do it in 4th. I've also noticed that in D my transmission is going into 5th at about 35mph which seems early although listening to the engine you would think its not changed up soon enough. I'm really struggling to get any insight on what's right and wrong with this car.

Does the engine sound like its in higher RPM than 2000? It's quite difficult to explain, it almost sounds like manual with a slipping clutch. The transmission changes could be quite normal but are being exaggerated by something like a worn rear engine mount...or at least I am hoping it is.

Not quite sure on the M mode though, seems a bit odd for TC lock up but I don know it makes it feel like another gear within a gear.

If I accelerate hard all of the issues seem to go away.

Which specialist are you using?

Independent vehicle specialists in Timperley, they did the lower torque mount and greased up the shafts to resolve an issue with axle ping.

I've just been out and recorded a couple of videos. You can't quite hear what I'm hearing but cans see the revs staying in the 2000rpm range when in D. Also took a video in M and you can see in 2nd gear the revs drop off whilst still in 2 before I've shifted up to 3.

Could be normal but the in cabin noise makes this awful to drive.

https://youtu.be/S4QuNDCF4IU

https://youtu.be/K4kWpBA_86Q

I don't see anything particularly wrong

I see the car locking the torque converter to save slippage and reduce fuel economy (that's when you see the revs drop a bit)

The behaviour of the transmission depends on driver behaviour. Drive it hard and it will shift at higher RPMs as it recognises you are using more throttle and demanding more performance.

Drive it softly and gently, and it will shift at lower RPMs to enhance fuel economy and provide a smoother ride.

It doesn’t look that bad to me either and I’ve had a gearbox go very wrong I know what you mean about it being in the same gear and the revs drop for no reason then go back up.

A full oil change stopped this from happening on mine I think the oil gets worn and stops the gearbox from holding pressure.

Mine holds at 2000 rpm when your just at the range for it to change gear and sounds like it’s slipping which I’m guessing it is as these are not very direct gearboxs like bmw ones.

I don’t think there’s much wrong with yours though it’s when they bang into gear and Rev higher like a badly slipping clutch, you know there’s big problems.

But a full gearbox oil change won’t hurt it.

As suggested it's worth doing a transmission fluid change. i did one on mine and the gear changes are smoother. There are threads on here on how to do it.

Thanks for the replies all.

It goes in for an inspection next Monday so hopefully I'll get some answers.

I did notice over weekend that I seem to have an issue with my Parking brake - its non existent when the car is hot but also creates a lot of squeal noise when released. Could my parking brake be creating drag on the engine? Would kind of make sense to me... would explain why I'm getting an intermittent jolt before the car starts moving after letting off the brakes and engine noise gets worst when at full temperature.

Parking brakes are very sensitive on these cars.

They are a drum brake operating on the drum inside the rear brake disc
If not used, the brake drum lining rusts and then the pads do not grip.
Additionally, if you have washed the car and the drums got wet inside, and you put the park brake on, they can rust to the drum and stick, resulting in a BANG when they release when the wheel starts rolling. Happened to me last week, locked the wheel in reverse, I had to go D-N-R a few times and a bit of engine power to release the park brake.

It then proceeded to squeal - but this may also be my disc brakes as that wheel was warmer than the others that day.

If the drum has rusted too much, then you need new drums and new park brake shoes.

The park brake should hold the car of an 18% incline - that's quite a steep hill - both pointing downhill and uphill. If it doesn't, and/or you need to depress the foot level more than 6 clicks, then it needs inspecting / cleaning / adjusting and maybe renewing the discs/pads.

And if you do have wheel brake squeal, inspect all wheels for rubbing brakes (easy with a IR thermometer after a few miles driving - the wheel with rubbing brakes will be a lot warmer than the others). The garage can disassemble, clean, lubricate and reassemble. This normally fixes it.