Thanks. So were there two shims on top of each other between the white cog and the link to the axle-teeth? Iirc one is wavey, so has kind of a spring function, the other is just a plain and simple shim. And the one I put into the last pic of my previous pic, lying on top of the white cog is indeed in teh correct position?

If the white wheel received some more damage, it sounds like the friction is indeed in the axle.

https://i.imgur.com/OtS1Qnvl.jpg

One of the pics that failed to upload. You can see the metal on the axle is somewhat darker where the o-ring sits. The o-ring is shown on the left, with the plastic cover that pushes it in place. This darker patch is where the crevice corrosion is. Last time it also had quite some rust on the axle itself. You did sandpaper this to a smooth finish if you had that too?

The two shims, one regular and one springy should indeed be on top of each other. I think that the regular one sits under the springy one, which is touching the white cog; if that is of consequence.

I didn't sand the pipe, but that was a very good idea! Maybe I should take the motor apart again and do that hmm

Regarding the last shim, I marked it on your photo where it was.

Thanks, that's really helpful!


If you can measure amperes, I would meausre the current draw of the motor first.

BEWARE THAT IT HAS A LOT OF POWER AND CAN PROBABLY BREAK YOUR FINGER!

If it runs freely and draws less than about half an ampere without the white-cog wheel in place, I would leave the motor alone (iirc it was 0,7A with everything in place (white cog, sprockets, axle) except for the wiper-arm when I first solved my issues). It is some work to get it apart and last time, I broke one of the carbon brushes (literal translation, not sure what they are called in English). And you can reassemble it the wrong way round if you're as daft as me ;)
It may not seem like it, but you can get the colar that holds the brushes of off the motor, and this includes the clamping-connectors to the PCB (they are solidly attached, first pry off the PCB, then they come out too with the brushes-holder). If you don't do this, you'll probably break off the carbon-brushes too when trying to reassemble the motor ;)

You're welcome!

Are there any easily available connectors to the motor, for instance on the pcb? The motor seems to wear very easily if taken off too much.

I am not entirely sure what you mean, but if the screw on the PCB is removed, you can pry the whole PCB off. It is clamped down pretty hard, but it does come off.

But be careful, I don't have it in front of me so I might be forgetting some crucial detail...

I meant to access contact points to measure the current, without removing the motor.

Just want to update the thread... one day my motor seized so bad it was vibrating the entire boot of my vehicle. I probably took apart my motor about fifteen times before I finally said to the missus that I was done with the bloody thing!!!

I have installed a bung purchased on eBay, removed the entire wiper assembly, and NEVER looked back! Will take a pic and attach it. I actually like the way it looks better. I removed the fuse for the washer pump so that water could never cause damage back there. This fix cost me $10 canadian and I will never waste time on this bloody thing again.