A Cautionary Tale
 

Took car for MOT, failed for corroded brake from flexi, OSR. The examiner showed me just where it was corroded and it looked bad so I bought a roll of copper brake pipe and connectors.

My last three cars (Cavalier, Mazda 626 and Rover 623) have all had this problem so I know the routine.
Neighbour, who's a mechanic and has things called 'tools' set about replacing offending pipe while I made tea.

Got back outside and Mick is stood scratching his head and sucking through his teeth............oh oh I thought, here we go again.
"Which pipe is corroded" he asked, so I pointed to it and explained that the corroded bit is up behind a piece of metal (can't remember what it's called) so I lie under the car and show it to him.

"Hmmph", (it was long apprenticeship he did, years ago) says Mick.
"That's not connected to your caliper, that's the original steel/alloy pipe and if you look at your caliper you'll see where I've cleaned the muck off a perfectly good copper pipe."

Whoever did the repair replaced all the rear pipes from about half way down the chassis and left the old pipes in place, tucking yes, that's what I meant) the old pipe into a groove in the metal thing I can't remember the name of.
Back to MOT centre and explained it to them, showed it to them and got my pass. Driving away I then wondered how they never spotted it on the previous TWO occasions they've done the MOT on the car.

So I hope this has cheered you all up......and I have a roll of copper brake pipe and connectors in stock. It'll come in handy for my next motor.

Thats very similar how mine were done as the tank would need dropping to remove the old pipe on the drivers side. The garage were very good though and put rubber pipe over the pipe that goes over the tank and tie wrapped the old cut pipe to it so the new would not move using the fixing point you cant see and stop the old from vibrating around.

Tried to fix my undertray after I caught it on something on the campsite a few weeks back. It had pulled the undertray backwards, ripping the fastening clip from the bumper and pulled the wheel arch back towards the wheel.

Also replaced a RPM sensor on the gearbox, theres 2 on there though so may need to replace that as well.

Took the clocks out and cleaned and bent the tabs for the connections strip to get a better connection now my temp and i hope fuel gauge works as they should.

This intrigues me, but my car is a 1998 MY 2.0T would i need a different app and thing that connects the the wotsit under the dash?

My brain was not working properly when i typed that out... Basically what i am asking is my car obd-2 certified as an earlier Ph1 car?

Yes mate they are all OBDII.

I spent 30 minutes sat in the back perplexed trying to figure out what could be rattling back there. Prodded various bits of trim but cant see anything overtly loose.

I will soon be getting out the sticky-back foam and making sure any plastic to plastic surface has some padding.

In the mean time *turns the radio up* ;)

I have been having a look at the drivers head light wash wipe, as the wash part has never worked thought it may be a blocked pipe alex told me to look for the T peice, tested the pipes and all was good had a look at the T peice and one half was blocked i got it working i a fashon but i need to fit a new T peice.

This weekend I made neutral progress on my to-do list, I removed the hands-free kit from the factory loom (easier than it looked) and then locked my radio head unit (HU605) whilst trying to remember the code from memory.

I did brush a few dead moths off my radiator though, and topped up my tyres to the right pressures, and ordered some new wiper blades, so this weekend wasn't a total loss.