240 General: - Heated air intake hose? Help!

volvobitch · Oct 14th, 2007, 17:27

I've been trying to track down the source of a screeching noise on acceleration from cold and I found an aluminium tube going from the exhaust to just under the carb. The pipe was broken and flapping around at the exhaust end.

Am a right in thinking this is the air intake talked about in previous threads? If it is, should I go without or get a replacement. If I go without, which end should I block up. I'm assuming that it's the exhaust end and this gets pretty hot, so what is the best way? Will it do any damage either way?

Most of the noise has now gone and the rest of it should be solved by replacing the belts.

It's a 1987 240 GLE AUTO with a B230K engine if this helps. Done about 130k, 5k of that since we got it around 6 months ago.

Sorry for all the questions. I'm new to this and am now on a mission to keep the car on the road.

brens-s80 · Oct 14th, 2007, 19:42

hi there,

take that tube and dump it in the bin.

1st step :get an aerosol plastic can lid ( could be wrong but i think it may be a 1-1/2" or 2" cap. ) and push in onto the airbox connection pipe where the tube used to go.

2nd step: undo the 2 bolts holding the air box in place ( when removing bracket be careful as there are 2 spacer nuts underneath it) and disconnect the air intake pipe coming in from the front of the car to the air box.Also disconnect the air pipe going to the MAF or Inlet manifold ( depending on your model) .

3rd step : there are 2 plastic push in clips on each side that hold in the air-intake flap assembly. these need to be pushed in to remove the air flap intake assembly.

4t step: once this is done re-install the airbox into the car, re-install the supporting bracket and bolts ( remember those spacers ) , reconnect the air in take tube , install air-filter and lid and away you go.

about 20 mins in total.

hope this helps

brendan

Rich 264 · Oct 14th, 2007, 19:44

Throw it in the bin and forget all about it! Might be advantageous in sweden at -40 but i don't believe it makes any difference here!

On my 740 I threw the pipe and also removed the thermostat/valve assembly inside the air filter box, (the bit that moves the flap between cold & hot air intakes) this improved response and acceleration noticeably, because all they do is restrict the air flow significantly. At the very least remove the "trumpet" that feeds the air filter box, if you look at the tiny diameter of the intake end against the wide diameter of the rest of the intake pipe you'll see why it makes a difference...

volvobitch · Oct 14th, 2007, 20:49

Thank you for the advice and reassurance. I thought I was on the right track but just wanted to check. Haynes didn't seem to help much.

dingo · Oct 14th, 2007, 21:08

just change the fan belt .,thats all if it screeches when turning then change the steering belt

volvobitch · Oct 14th, 2007, 21:26

Thanks dingo.

I was going in to look at changing the belts when I saw the flapping pipe. It does look like it was contributing to the noise, but there is still something there.

I don't think any of the belts have been changed since the last official service at around 105k (or 10+ years ago).

All in all, it's in not too bad a condition for a 20 year old car. When I fix the screech and sort a couple of of small rust problems in the usual places (sills, offside rear arch) I can't see any reason why it can't last a good while longer. We MOT'd six months ago with no problems and I'm just trying to get ahead of the game for the next one (with no experience!)

acshortt5 · Oct 14th, 2007, 21:39

I used to have a 240 GLT with a B230E engine and hope this advice is useful.

On mine the alternator could slide forward if not fitted correctly with the effect of causing the two drive belts to go out of alignment and rub. Make sure that the alternator is fitted correctly and the belts are as tight as possible. Set of drive belts from Halfords is only about £13 and is definately worth doing if they are 10+ years old as the rubber will naturally degrade - may look allright visibly but will be structurally weaker.

I take it you know you can fit them by cutting the old ones off and sliding the new ones under the fan shroud and around the blades a bit fidely at first but saves a lot of time! Also worth carrying a spare set of belts in case one goes.

Hope this helps.

radiomark · Oct 14th, 2007, 21:51

i may be wrong here,and stand to be corrected,but as the car has a b230k
carb engine.should the hose remain in place to supply hot air to the carb in freezing conditions.

I know the hose is not needed on injected engines,but not sure about carbs.

volvobitch · Oct 14th, 2007, 21:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by acshortt5

I used to have a 240 GLT with a B230E engine and hope this advice is useful.

On mine the alternator could slide forward if not fitted correctly with the effect of causing the two drive belts to go out of alignment and rub. Make sure that the alternator is fitted correctly and the belts are as tight as possible. Set of drive belts from Halfords is only about £13 and is definately worth doing if they are 10+ years old as the rubber will naturally degrade - may look allright visibly but will be structurally weaker.

I take it you know you can fit them by cutting the old ones off and sliding the new ones under the fan shroud and around the blades a bit fidely at first but saves a lot of time! Also worth carrying a spare set of belts in case one goes.

Hope this helps.

Actually, that could explain something and has pointed me in the right direction in Haynes.

I'm planning to do as much as possible myself along the obvious lines and then take the car for a proper service. I can't afford too much and I've heard good reports about the independent Volvo specialist in SE18.

The dining room floor can wait until this is done. You'll see what I mean from the last photo in post 1.

HappyGreySquirrel · Oct 14th, 2007, 23:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by acshortt5

On mine the alternator could slide forward if not fitted correctly with the effect of causing the two drive belts to go out of alignment and rub.

Very interesting... I've just bought a 740 and the alternator is tilted forward and inward - one slack belt, one with visual damage and it squeaks. It looked like the rear alternator mounting was loose/broken. However a quick crawl underneath didn't show anything obviously broken. I'm having a proper look tomorrow when I can strip it while I'm 5 minutes away from a salvage breakers!

Oct 14th, 2007, 17:27	#1
volvobitch New Member Last Online: Aug 14th, 2009 20:36 Join Date: May 2007 Location: London View Photos By: volvobitch	Heated air intake hose? Help! I've been trying to track down the source of a screeching noise on acceleration from cold and I found an aluminium tube going from the exhaust to just under the carb. The pipe was broken and flapping around at the exhaust end. Am a right in thinking this is the air intake talked about in previous threads? If it is, should I go without or get a replacement. If I go without, which end should I block up. I'm assuming that it's the exhaust end and this gets pretty hot, so what is the best way? Will it do any damage either way? Most of the noise has now gone and the rest of it should be solved by replacing the belts. It's a 1987 240 GLE AUTO with a B230K engine if this helps. Done about 130k, 5k of that since we got it around 6 months ago. Sorry for all the questions. I'm new to this and am now on a mission to keep the car on the road.

Oct 14th, 2007, 19:42	#2
brens-s80 VOC Member Last Online: Jun 17th, 2022 11:33 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: naas View Photos By: brens-s80	here's how hi there, take that tube and dump it in the bin. 1st step :get an aerosol plastic can lid ( could be wrong but i think it may be a 1-1/2" or 2" cap. ) and push in onto the airbox connection pipe where the tube used to go. 2nd step: undo the 2 bolts holding the air box in place ( when removing bracket be careful as there are 2 spacer nuts underneath it) and disconnect the air intake pipe coming in from the front of the car to the air box.Also disconnect the air pipe going to the MAF or Inlet manifold ( depending on your model) . 3rd step : there are 2 plastic push in clips on each side that hold in the air-intake flap assembly. these need to be pushed in to remove the air flap intake assembly. 4t step: once this is done re-install the airbox into the car, re-install the supporting bracket and bolts ( remember those spacers ) , reconnect the air in take tube , install air-filter and lid and away you go. about 20 mins in total. hope this helps brendan

Oct 14th, 2007, 21:08	#5
dingo Junior Member Last Online: Jan 14th, 2013 15:10 Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: rotherham	change the belts just change the fan belt .,thats all if it screeches when turning then change the steering belt

Oct 14th, 2007, 21:39	#7
acshortt5 Volvo Nutcase Last Online: Jul 14th, 2023 12:57 Join Date: May 2007 Location: N/A View Photos By: acshortt5	I used to have a 240 GLT with a B230E engine and hope this advice is useful. On mine the alternator could slide forward if not fitted correctly with the effect of causing the two drive belts to go out of alignment and rub. Make sure that the alternator is fitted correctly and the belts are as tight as possible. Set of drive belts from Halfords is only about £13 and is definately worth doing if they are 10+ years old as the rubber will naturally degrade - may look allright visibly but will be structurally weaker. I take it you know you can fit them by cutting the old ones off and sliding the new ones under the fan shroud and around the blades a bit fidely at first but saves a lot of time! Also worth carrying a spare set of belts in case one goes. Hope this helps. __________________ Andrew 1998 S70 T5 CD AUTO Previously a 1990 240 GLT-R

Oct 14th, 2007, 19:44	#3
Rich 264 Pinball Wizard Last Online: Feb 6th, 2013 00:53 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: cheshire	Throw it in the bin and forget all about it! Might be advantageous in sweden at -40 but i don't believe it makes any difference here! On my 740 I threw the pipe and also removed the thermostat/valve assembly inside the air filter box, (the bit that moves the flap between cold & hot air intakes) this improved response and acceleration noticeably, because all they do is restrict the air flow significantly. At the very least remove the "trumpet" that feeds the air filter box, if you look at the tiny diameter of the intake end against the wide diameter of the rest of the intake pipe you'll see why it makes a difference...

Oct 14th, 2007, 20:49	#4
volvobitch New Member Last Online: Aug 14th, 2009 20:36 Join Date: May 2007 Location: London View Photos By: volvobitch	Thank you for the advice and reassurance. I thought I was on the right track but just wanted to check. Haynes didn't seem to help much.

Oct 14th, 2007, 21:26	#6
volvobitch New Member Last Online: Aug 14th, 2009 20:36 Join Date: May 2007 Location: London View Photos By: volvobitch	Thanks dingo. I was going in to look at changing the belts when I saw the flapping pipe. It does look like it was contributing to the noise, but there is still something there. I don't think any of the belts have been changed since the last official service at around 105k (or 10+ years ago). All in all, it's in not too bad a condition for a 20 year old car. When I fix the screech and sort a couple of of small rust problems in the usual places (sills, offside rear arch) I can't see any reason why it can't last a good while longer. We MOT'd six months ago with no problems and I'm just trying to get ahead of the game for the next one (with no experience!)

Oct 14th, 2007, 21:51	#8
radiomark Senior Member Last Online: Mar 6th, 2020 14:24 Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: eastbourneish View Photos By: radiomark	i may be wrong here,and stand to be corrected,but as the car has a b230k carb engine.should the hose remain in place to supply hot air to the carb in freezing conditions. I know the hose is not needed on injected engines,but not sure about carbs.

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