V40: For your viewing pleasure my lumpy running V40

[Neil H]

Originally Posted by KBB

In live data select for graphing mode ECT, MAF, Long term fuel trim(LTFT) Short term fuel trim (STFT), ignition timing and throttle position value.

Long term fuel trim should be close to 0 it is expressed as a +-%, its a measure of how much the ECU has had to correct baseline fuel injection. If you see a value of +20% then the correction factor has been 20% more fuel injected than the ECUs base line calculation from the various input sensors. A negative number means the ECUs baseline calculation if over fuelling and fuel ins now being taken away. Lon term lets us know what has been happening over time and is committed to the ECUs memory after shut-down.

STFT is the immediate reaction at the O2 sensor, again the value should be 0 at best worst +- 5%. understanding fuel trims open a new window of diagnosing faults. e.g. if at idle STFT was +30% this means the system is lean, if I take the engine to 1500rpm and the trims fall back to +15% and again at 2500rpm were at +5% under load it got better but at idle it was lean means I'm looking for an air leak.

The is a whole lot of other faults trims can reveal too much to explain here list here. If the OP is confident with a DVM then the is a lot of simple testing on sensors that can give a clearer picture of what is happening. Happy to post some direction if the need is felt, its cost nothing and dose not involve changing parts.

Thanks KBB, Im happy with a DVM what would you suggest I do?

On a side note ive just come in from the cold and rain, I have removed and cleaned the temp sensor in the Thermostat housing, it wasnt gunked up or anything but the copper was very tarnished and dull - should i just get a new one? or is there an electrical test i can do on it? like stick it in some hot water and watch for a change in resistance?
(while doing this i noticed the Thermostat is a non volvo part).
While i was at it i flushed the water system through again.

I removed the throttle body and cleaned it all with a paper towel to get the soot from the inside, the butterfly is nice and free moving and there was no gunk blocking it.

I put it all back together and attempted to start it, it started up ok ran for about 3 seconds and died, on repeat attempts the same thing kept happening so i unplugged the MAF and it started and kept running.
I let it run for a while to get up to temperature and bleed the air out of the water system.
When it was cold there wasnt really any VVT noise and it was a nice acceptable sound if a little irregular and not silky smooth.
one it had warmed up it was back to sounding like a diesel ;(

[Neil H]

Hi Everyone,

Ok got a known working MAF, MAP, Thermostat temp sensor from Malteser and Gatos (Thanks Guys!) and put them on - accidentally broke the element on the old MAF (dont ask !) so glad to have a new one.

Removed and cleaned the VVT solenoid and the idle control valve too.

Most of the error codes are now gone from my OBD scan but its still not running smooth.

BUT i think i have an air leak on the inlet manifold.
When i was at Gatos' house we noticed a hissing sound and it was more apparent today and like a tut tut tut kind of sound along with the rattle& chug of the engine.

http://youtu.be/jMDKBANw_R8

Pulling the VVT sensor quietens it right down (including the tut tut sound) but there is an occasional pop there if you listen towards the end.

I thought the tut sound was coming from cylinder 1 (furthest to the left as you face the car, so sprayed a bit of carb cleaner where the manifold meets the head and it rev'd right up as i would expect if there was a leak.

I also notice the injector seemed rather easy to move and spraying some more carb cleaner where it plugs into the manifold made it rev up again so thought i would remove the injector rail and have a look.



Port 1 on the left looked dry but with a bit of black greasy crust inside there were remnances of copper grease on the injector body.

Port 2 on the right was wet with copper grease present in the port and on the injector body



Ports 3 and 4 were very much like port 2

So a question, is it normal to use copper grease on the injectors to seal them into the ports or have i had the cowboys in ?

I presume it would be wise to buy some new rubber O rings for the injectors to seal them in the ports better?

Injector one's body seems very loose in the port compared to the other three is this normal ?

How do you usually know you have a good seal or is it hit and miss?

And finally how easy is it to change the inlet manifold gasket ?

I squeezed a socket on a ling extension bar onto the first inlet manifold bolt and tried to tighten it some more and it did move, i didnt want to go too far in case i stripped the thread so i guess i need a torque wrench and the correct setting, Or should it go tighter than i can do by hand and a short 3/8 ratchet?

While doing some searching I also found this thread: Which talked about having to reset the ECU after a flat battery and then i remembered i had a flat battery before all these problems cropped up about a month ago so i guess mine could do with running through this procedure when ive got the manifold sorted?

Flat battery, has reset the ECU and your car needs to re-learn. Most probably, the engine is coked up and the ECU was compensating in throttle position, fuel/air mixture ratio. Now that these values are reset, car will struggle to idle

The following text was copied from here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=87173

Thanks to all those who posted here for putting me on the right track, still needed a bit of trial and error plus Haynes (as bongo says it's in section 'ref 5'), the full process is:
1. Disconnect battery, short battery leads together (don't short the battery ), turn on ignition, and leave for 15 minutes.
2. Disconnect short, turn off ignition, and reconnect battery
3. Start engine and leave to idle WITHOUT TOUCHING THE THROTTLE until engine is FULLY warmed up (bits in capitals are bits I found out the hard way!!). This took 25 minutes in my case. If it stalls during this stage just restart it.
4. Run at 1200rpm for two minutes.
5. Drive 'in varying conditions' for five miles.



If this fails, you will then have to remove the inlet manifold and clean all the coking up there, as well as on the throttle body and the EGR valve. Once you do that, repeat the steps to reset the ECU and hope that your car will idle correctly.

[fat tony]

I had a problem with the injector o-rings when i changed the fuel pressure regulator, they're only pennies to replace

I wouldn't use any lubricant on them, just pop them in, the copper grease does seem like a bit of a bodge to me

[Neil H]

Originally Posted by fat tony

I had a problem with the injector o-rings when i changed the fuel pressure regulator, they're only pennies to replace

I wouldn't use any lubricant on them, just pop them in, the copper grease does seem like a bit of a bodge to me

Ok thanks, I'll get some new O rings and clean that copper grease gunk out, i thought it seemed odd.

I also called up Braydons (London Volvo Specialist) for a price on the VVT pulley replacement and they said as a rough guide £500 for the VVT pulley and all new belts so im really not sure what to do there.
Because things quieten down when I unplug the VVT sensor is that a high likelyhood that i just have a duff VVT sensor?
maybe i'll put a shout out for one on the wanted forum and try one.

[Matt86]

Originally Posted by Neil H

I also called up Braydons (London Volvo Specialist) for a price on the VVT pulley replacement and they said as a rough guide £500 for the VVT pulley and all new belts so im really not sure what to do there.
Because things quieten down when I unplug the VVT sensor is that a high likelyhood that i just have a duff VVT sensor?
maybe i'll put a shout out for one on the wanted forum and try one.

If you've got the time and energy to do it you can pay most the parts for £300-350 (VVT Pulley and timing belt, Tensioners, idlers and water pump) and fit it yourself you'll save a lot of money as it'll take the garage about 5hrs worth of labour to do everything (Hopefully)

[Neil H]

Originally Posted by Matt86

If you've got the time and energy to do it you can pay most the parts for £300-350 (VVT Pulley and timing belt, Tensioners, idlers and water pump) and fit it yourself you'll save a lot of money as it'll take the garage about 5hrs worth of labour to do everything (Hopefully)

I dont really have the time (but would make the time if it came to it) I have the energy (again because i have few choices) Its more that case that i dont really know what im doing with something so critical.

I've done engine swaps in Mini's and metro Turbo's, a head gasket on my old Renault 5 Turbo in my youth (about 13 years ago) plenty of other bits and pieces but I'm afraid of messing this one up (I believe there is special tooling required) and i don't really have a proper workspace just where the car is currently parked and this bloody rainy weather is relentless !

Is this a good guide to go by?

I'm frightened off a bit by some of the comments here.

Am i on the right track with the inlet manifold ? if there is a leak would i massively effect the tickover of the car as per my videos ?

[Matt86]

Originally Posted by Neil H

I dont really have the time (but would make the time if it came to it) I have the energy (again because i have few choices) Its more that case that i dont really know what im doing with something so critical.

I've done engine swaps in Mini's and metro Turbo's, a head gasket on my old Renault 5 Turbo in my youth (about 13 years ago) plenty of other bits and pieces but I'm afraid of messing this one up (I believe there is special tooling required) and i don't really have a proper workspace just where the car is currently parked and this bloody rainy weather is relentless !

Is this a good guide to go by?

I'm frightened off a bit by some of the comments here.

Am i on the right track with the inlet manifold ? if there is a leak would i massively effect the tickover of the car as per my videos ?

I think replacing the VVT pulley is what you make of it. That guide is a good one to go off as I don't think there is a VVT pulley replacement guide on this forum? I could be wrong. I've sourced a VVT pulley so will be looking at doing mine soon, Just need to make sure I've got all my research in place first. Thankfully I've got a garage and a driveway now. It's easy to be put off by such a big job, especially with what's involved. It's just making sure you've done plenty of research before hand really.

In terms of the inlet manifold I honestly couldn't say for sure. I would of though a leak in the manifold could easily cause that problem though as it'll just reduce compression in the engine so it'll build it up and lose it often. Certainly needs replacing either way. (FYI - Worth doing a compression test to see what you get out of each cylinder anyway)

[Neil H]

Thanks, I guess first things first, i'll attack the manifold gasket and injector O rings as at least they are fairly chap parts and see if the situation improves while i contemplate the VVT.

[Matt86]

Certainly. The VVT can easily be the last job on the to do list as the car should be able to run fine with it going (At least mine does and I believe over half the people on this forum does lol) But worth looking into getting it done at some point.

Just remember when you go to do the intake manifold make sure you replaced the Manifold, Fit new seals and O-Rings to the injectors, fit a new O-ring to the dipstick tube as that has to be removed as well and make sure you have a torque wrench to refit the manifold to a specific torque.

Other than that you should be sound Shout if you need any help.

[Neil H]

Originally Posted by Matt86

Just remember when you go to do the intake manifold make sure you replaced the Manifold,

Sorry i dont get what you mean