General: Common S60 Problems - Solutions Only

[citaylor]

Originally Posted by Graeme Catnach

Lights not flashing when locking car with remote - check all doors, bonnet & boot are fully shut; often opening boot/bonnet & slamming shut fixes this!

Mine had a split wire in the harness going to the trunk release button on the trunk.

[Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Alpha206

Lights not flashing when locking car with remote - check all doors, bonnet & boot are fully shut; often opening boot/bonnet & slamming shut fixes this!

I have a problem with the central locking not working and slamming the boot lid shut seems to fix this temporarily. Ay idea why and can a permanent solution be found?
Thanks

[baldeagle]

Originally Posted by Alpha206

Thanks to "oilburner" for this one:

"One shot" function causing window to get part way up and then "bounce" down:

Try performing a reset of the UEM (Upper Electronic Module), this controls the door locks and window operation:

- Close all of the doors and bonnet.
- Key in position II engine not running.
- Hold both the driver window and passenger window switches in the driver door panel in the closed or up position for 5 to 8 seconds after the windows are closed.
- Release buttons.
- Remove the ignition key.
- Operated the remote twice. lock/unlock lock/unlock.
This will reset the UEM brain. This can correct faulty operation of the sunroof and/or erratic door lock function.

Worked for mine. I had the same problem after the electric mirror switch was replaced.

EDIT: This may or may not wipe out the settings for the auto-lock, I do not know for certain as mine doesn't do it!

You could also try locking and unlocking the car via the drivers door lock, this might do the same thing - but may also loose your settings, unless the auto-lock is controlled via another of the car's computers - it could be, I don't know for sure.

Thanks for the information, I have reset the UEM but the driver's window still bounces when it reaches the closed position. I've applied silicon spray lubricant to the window edges but still no luck. The GOOD NEWS is that the electric sunroof now works!

[barrybritcher]

Originally Posted by Alpha206

Thanks to "oilburner" for this one:

"One shot" function causing window to get part way up and then "bounce" down:

Try performing a reset of the UEM (Upper Electronic Module), this controls the door locks and window operation:

- Close all of the doors and bonnet.
- Key in position II engine not running.
- Hold both the driver window and passenger window switches in the driver door panel in the closed or up position for 5 to 8 seconds after the windows are closed.
- Release buttons.
- Remove the ignition key.
- Operated the remote twice. lock/unlock lock/unlock.

This will reset the UEM brain. This can correct faulty operation of the sunroof and/or erratic door lock function.

Worked for mine. I had the same problem after the electric mirror switch was replaced.

EDIT: This may or may not wipe out the settings for the auto-lock, I do not know for certain as mine doesn't do it!

You could also try locking and unlocking the car via the drivers door lock, this might do the same thing - but may also loose your settings, unless the auto-lock is controlled via another of the car's computers - it could be, I don't know for sure.

Doesn't work, is this for particular models? S60 2001 SE T5 Auto

[jach]

we bought a Haynes manual for a s60 in Halfords.

[Felippe]

If you gear stick feels like it's being pushed into the chewing gum in every gear, open your bonnet and

1. Pry out the two joints from the gear-box levers
2. Stick the straw from the WD40 spray into the rubber boot of the cable housing which goes to the gear stick and spray in some WD40
3. Clean both parts of the separated joints and apply some grease.
4. Pop the joints back on …done

This should give you a bit more precise and smoother gear changes. You might need to remove the air filter housing to get better access...

[o1975]

Originally Posted by Alpha206

Haynes Manual for S60
****update....The S60 Haynes Manual is now available to order - Book No. 4793.****

For those of us who don't yet have the tech-skills or adventurous spirit to go down the VIDA-DICE route an old-fashioned paper-manual may be the answer...

I was wondering if owners who have this could kindly comment on its usefulness. I've noticed it covers S60 between 2000-2008 and there are significant differences in component-layouts across variants during this period yes?

I've got a 2007 S60 2.4 D Geartronic 6-speed AWD (163bhp)

1. Would the diagrams all be overly generic and I'd be left guessing no better than without the manual?
2. Is it very US-centric the cars over there seem to be somewhat different from those sold to rest of world?
3. Has anyone found this to be really helpful with their S60 here in UK?

Thank you!!!

[pauldale]

[QUOTE=Graeme Catnach;265959]Here's a few common problems that come up on the forum, with solutions where possible. Feel free to add your own or correct me, too! Some may apply to the V70 as well...

Power steering fluid loss - either failure of the hose or seam going on the tank. Known problem by Volvo

Thanks for the info Graeme.
I recently had a leak from the power steering reservoir / drain pipe of my S60 D5. (I got through about a litre of fluid in a month). After removing and cleaning the reservoir and pipe, I couldn't see any damage anywhere so just refitted, but tightened the hose-clip that bit extra. It's been fine for a week now. So I think it's worth checking before buying the parts.

Cheers
Paul

[GMcL]

Handbrake shoe linings separating.
They have just gone on my four and a half year old S60 D5. For some time now I have noticed a delayed release from the handbrake.
Last weekend I went to take the car out the garage to wash it, it had been sitting in the garage for a week in gear, handbrake off. The car would not move off as normal, right rear wheel locked solid. Eventually released after dragging for six feet out of the garage.
Contacted Volvo and told not to drive at speed as the now loose lining(s) could catch in the stub axle causing over one thousand pounds damage.
Car booked into local dealer for new set of rear discs, pads and shoes. Cost quoted at just under £400 before VOC discount.

Covered in this thread among others: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=64804

[GMcL]

Just to add, Mo created this thread with a write up and pics of what is required to replace the rear brakes.