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Buying Advice Request

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Old May 12th, 2024, 12:56   #1
inuhoo
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Default Buying Advice Request

Hi Guys,

I have just found a XC70 for sale locally that I am interested in for my next daily driver, and I'm just hoping for some basic advice as I'm a Volvo virgin.

It's an '06 D5 AWD auto with 163k on the clock. The timing belt has recently been changed, it's passed its last two MOTs with zero advisories, and although I've not seen it yet, I've been told there is a 'solid' service history.

Are there any common faults or is there anything I should keep an eye/ear out for when I go to have a look?

Thanks
Adam

Last edited by inuhoo; May 12th, 2024 at 13:39.
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Old May 12th, 2024, 14:21   #2
Kev0607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inuhoo View Post
Hi Guys,

I have just found a XC70 for sale locally that I am interested in for my next daily driver, and I'm just hoping for some basic advice as I'm a Volvo virgin.

It's an '06 D5 AWD auto with 163k on the clock. The timing belt has recently been changed, it's passed its last two MOTs with zero advisories, and although I've not seen it yet, I've been told there is a 'solid' service history.

Are there any common faults or is there anything I should keep an eye/ear out for when I go to have a look?

Thanks
Adam
Hi. The following things you can check (some are common to check on any car really);

-Check for any unwanted knocks or bangs over bumps
-Check that the transmission shifts smoothly. So no crunches or banging into gears
-Check all the electrics work like windows and central locking. Locks can fail on these.
-Check the alarm engages (another common fault)
-Have a look through the service history. I know they said it has been serviced, but when was it last done. If its an all-wheel-drive version, you want to see if there’s any records or any of the fluids changed like Haldex. If not, that’s something you want to do.
-Check air con works
-Check that the window washers work. Another common failure is poor flow from the washer jets.
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2008 V70 2.4 D5 (P3 chassis) - 163,000 miles
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Old May 12th, 2024, 17:37   #3
Auldgit
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by inuhoo View Post
Hi Guys,

I have just found a XC70 for sale locally that I am interested in for my next daily driver, and I'm just hoping for some basic advice as I'm a Volvo virgin.

It's an '06 D5 AWD auto with 163k on the clock. The timing belt has recently been changed, it's passed its last two MOTs with zero advisories, and although I've not seen it yet, I've been told there is a 'solid' service history.

Are there any common faults or is there anything I should keep an eye/ear out for when I go to have a look?

Thanks
Adam
Check on full lock with power applied on a loose/wet surface, any jerking or scrubbing can indicate Haldex problems, as I know to my cost...
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Old May 12th, 2024, 18:04   #4
reggit
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Default

Guessing that’s a late P2 model on an 06 plate?

Check the swirl arm is connected, they have a habit of popping off which means the swirl flaps don’t move. This doesn’t always throw an engine light.

There’ll be wealths of information in the P2 section of the forum.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19
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Old May 12th, 2024, 18:58   #5
inuhoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auldgit View Post
Check on full lock with power applied on a loose/wet surface, any jerking or scrubbing can indicate Haldex problems, as I know to my cost...

Thanks I don't think I'd ever have done this test. I hope your issues didn't set you back too much
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Old May 12th, 2024, 19:05   #6
inuhoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reggit View Post
Guessing that’s a late P2 model on an 06 plate?

Check the swirl arm is connected, they have a habit of popping off which means the swirl flaps don’t move. This doesn’t always throw an engine light.

There’ll be wealths of information in the P2 section of the forum.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19
You're completely right, it is a P2.

.

I will go and have a look in the correct place for such advice as suggested haha.

If any mod is able to move this post to the correct section of the forum, I would be grateful.
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Old May 12th, 2024, 19:14   #7
inuhoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev0607 View Post
Hi. The following things you can check (some are common to check on any car really);

-Check for any unwanted knocks or bangs over bumps
-Check that the transmission shifts smoothly. So no crunches or banging into gears
-Check all the electrics work like windows and central locking. Locks can fail on these.
-Check the alarm engages (another common fault)
-Have a look through the service history. I know they said it has been serviced, but when was it last done. If its an all-wheel-drive version, you want to see if there’s any records or any of the fluids changed like Haldex. If not, that’s something you want to do.
-Check air con works
-Check that the window washers work. Another common failure is poor flow from the washer jets.
Thank you for the checklist, Kev. I must admit I never even considered that the Haldex system may use additional fluid, but of course when you point it out that makes total sense.
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Old May 12th, 2024, 22:28   #8
Georgeandkira
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The parking brakes are not the most robust in the industry.
Visual inspection requires removal of the rear caliper(s) and rotor(s).

You can apply the brake lever in different configurations (while moving / in neutral on hills, pointed nose-up and down.

You can easily lift the leather trim brake lever boot and a milk-colored cover to inspect the 10mm nut-and-rod adjustment to determine remaining cable.

However, doing both these things won't tell you the whole story.

Use only Volvo parking brake shoes if needed.

Personal Experience: My dealership purchased (FSR) '07 had perfectly functioning parking brakes.
Over 6 weeks they weakened. They're all but ineffective. Many members here have experienced this.

Any vehicle that age will likely need dampers.
Longevity of front-end perishables (spring seat rubber, bearing mounts and axle gators (boots to us) varies.
Drop links / anti-sway bar links go and are part of a damper job.

Performing a transmission drain & fill is a great thing to do. With 4l of correct fluid and an 18mm aluminum gasket ordered online, you can see the condition of your "life-long service" transmission fluid. It'll likely be vile.

Get a catch pan with a pour spout to ease transfer of the bad fluid into a transfer jug. They're not dear.

Then you can wrestle and anguish over your next course of action; be it additional drain & fills or an easy-to-do pump out.
None of this is expensive, complicated or time consuming.
A 17mm spanner is the only tool involved.

Clean fluid is better than dirty, spoiled fluid. Gone (for the most part) are the days of clean fluid causing a good transmission to go bad. Such a transmission is already bad.

Remember, the first drain & fill can reveal clear, well maintained red fluid or appropriately dirty fluid.

Last edited by Georgeandkira; May 12th, 2024 at 22:48.
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Old May 13th, 2024, 21:25   #9
inuhoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgeandkira View Post
The parking brakes are not the most robust in the industry.
Visual inspection requires removal of the rear caliper(s) and rotor(s).

You can apply the brake lever in different configurations (while moving / in neutral on hills, pointed nose-up and down.

You can easily lift the leather trim brake lever boot and a milk-colored cover to inspect the 10mm nut-and-rod adjustment to determine remaining cable.

However, doing both these things won't tell you the whole story.

Use only Volvo parking brake shoes if needed.

Personal Experience: My dealership purchased (FSR) '07 had perfectly functioning parking brakes.
Over 6 weeks they weakened. They're all but ineffective. Many members here have experienced this.

Any vehicle that age will likely need dampers.
Longevity of front-end perishables (spring seat rubber, bearing mounts and axle gators (boots to us) varies.
Drop links / anti-sway bar links go and are part of a damper job.

Performing a transmission drain & fill is a great thing to do. With 4l of correct fluid and an 18mm aluminum gasket ordered online, you can see the condition of your "life-long service" transmission fluid. It'll likely be vile.

Get a catch pan with a pour spout to ease transfer of the bad fluid into a transfer jug. They're not dear.

Then you can wrestle and anguish over your next course of action; be it additional drain & fills or an easy-to-do pump out.
None of this is expensive, complicated or time consuming.
A 17mm spanner is the only tool involved.

Clean fluid is better than dirty, spoiled fluid. Gone (for the most part) are the days of clean fluid causing a good transmission to go bad. Such a transmission is already bad.

Remember, the first drain & fill can reveal clear, well maintained red fluid or appropriately dirty fluid.
Thank you for the thorough reply, and the encouragement to tackle at least the fluid changes myself, I think I will give it a go.

I'm feeling quite confident going into this purchase now, so thanks again to you, and the others that also replied.
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